Search results for query: *

While I will agree the tapered is a better design over all there isn't anything wrong with the ball bearing. If you were building an auto cross car or a car for drifting then yeah the tapered would be better......but honestly if you were building a car for those types of racing you'd probably...

There are some guys that don't like em......One of my best friend's hates em.....he always jokes that he is gonna tow me home when they fail.....he's still waiting. I laugh at him cause I don't have to mess with that end play adjustment. It's like anything else.....some people like em....some...

That is exactly right :thumblef:

I have had the green bearings on my street car for over 4 years with thousands of miles and not had any issues......that green bearing can't be used on the street rumor is complete garbage. Hell more than half of the new vehicles on the road now don't have tapered bearings in the rear axles...

For your application....yes. Also I forgot to mention the input shafts are different on the transmissions so a lock up converter will not fit on a non-lock up trans and vice versa. Call Nelson at ACC: http://www.accperformance.com/index.htm He's a great guy and will answer all your...

Being it was put behind a 273 by the factory you have a non-lockup converter. A lock up converter has a clutch in it that is activated either hydraulically or by electric that "locks" the converter and makes it a direct drive to the trans...no slipping so to speak. When the clutch locks it...

I'm running an ACC performance converter and I love it.....Nelson built it just for me and under $400. It really like the nitrous when I spray the motor as well. Honestly you'll be fine with and ACC, Dynamic or PTC they are all great converters. The best thing you can do is call one of them...

I run a CRT reverse manual VB. CRT recomennded installing the billet low/reverse servo piston because all his VB's are low band apply and I believe the A&A VB's are low band apply as well. YES YOU NEED IT. Yes you can install it with the trans in the car. I know I did it on mine. On a 904...

With the ACC Converter, RMVB, Rebuild kit and labor since I had a local shop rebuild it......I've got close to $900 dollars in it.

Call John Cope: http://www.coperacingtrans.com/ Tell him what you are doing with the car and he'll sell you ONLY what you'll need to keep the trans happy. I bought all the guts from my 904 from him and she's healthy and happy with a couple years of track abuse.

Mine is the same as far as I know....my car was a /6 I am using the Trans crossmember that came with the car when I put my 318/904 combo.

The problem is the converter fluid is draining back in to the trans and the pump isn't pushing any fluid in park....so you aren't filling the converter back up until you put it in reverese and you running the converter in reverese while it's a little dry. Warm it up in neutral and then back it...

I wouldn't call Pennzoil S**T but I know it leaves a film on and in the engine....you can tell what motors ran it which ones didn't by the color of the parts coming out of the motor.....you can see it on piston skirts and on the inside of the valve covers the most. I run Valvoline cause I can...

I understand that but why don't you get that coating with Valvoline? I've only ever seen Pennzoil motors and Valvoline motors. My dad has always ran Pennzoil and I have always run Valvoline and he switched to Valvoline after seeing that coating on his valvecovers on his truck vs the valve...

Take a valvecover off any motor that was run with Pennzoil or Quaker State then look at one that ran Valvoline or any other oil and you'll notice a huge difference. Pennzoil and Quaker State leave dark "film" or coking on a motor more than any other oil I have ever seen. I'm not saying...

Got to their website and search through the tech archives....they usually have those articles posted.

I love my ACC performance converter: http://www.accperformance.com/index.htm

Well i guess they are in the ballpark with the rest of those prices but damn...those are high compaired to my area.....that or my guy really likes me.

Yes and a reverse manual valve body will help it shift even better. Make sure you get one with low band apply: http://www.coperacingtrans.com/valvebodies.htm

I hope they lubed it before they stuck you then.....no way a rebuild on a /6 904 should be $1000 or over. I was under $500 for a street/strip904 with all the goodies....yes I got a deal on some parts but even without the deal I'd be looking under a $1000 for my trans. They are taking to ya IMO.

$450 for a stock rebuild? If that includes parts and labor with them pulling and installing the trans I say you got a pretty good deal. I paid $250 plus parts to have my 904 rebuilt and I pulled the trans and gave it to the guy.

I used to run one before I put on the Cal-Tracs.....they work fine as long as you have them adjusted right. There is one that American Muscle sells that has the snubber threaded and uses a lock nut and it is better cause the adjustment in more accurate...

Not all of them.....the one I pirated parts from was a 2.54 first gear.

Ahh...I guess my swap was easier then...I had a 904 and I just swapped the input shaft off the gear and installed all the 999 guts.

All you need to do is swap the input shaft with one from a non-lock up unit and you'll be fine to use the A-999 lock-up trans.....infact the lcok up trans had stronger planetray gears and are beefire on the internals and have an extra front clutch disc.

I agree with Joe on the 904....I beat the snot out of my 904 and I have no problems with iteven with nitrous launches. I run a CRT RMVB and an ACC performance converter. I used a CRT rebuild kit with Kollen steels and Alto Red clutches and I got the 4 pinion steel planetarys out or a lock-up...

Do you guys have a spring keeping tension on the K/D lever on the trans? I had a problem like that and I talked to a caouple of guys and they told me to put a light carb return spring on the lever. The stock linkage keeps the lever in a steady spot but when you switch to the cable it has some...

Every performance converter I have ever bought or seen required me to go get new ARP bolts.....you'll probably need the 7/16" for the Dynamic and the stocker had 5/16" Mancini has a kit that includes crank to flexplate and flexplate to converter bolts.

This sounds typical....Summit sends the wrong part then says the right one is backordered and you'll have it in a week......this is why I buy from Jegs. Summit has no clue what a Mopar is or could care less. This problem will get worse and worse with them. They are now offering parts like...

I ran a TCI before the ACC.....