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Part number and casting number are usually not the same. Even in the aftermarket (mopar perf)

Where did you find new hubs?? BTW, i would avoid heat if at all possible.

I dont know about "all"...... hes a good supplier, but when i bought stuff from him, it would seem there was an assumption that i was working on a '65 and later even tho they require your model details. The OP should also be aware.... he has shims setting the end play.....dont confuse them with...

Then you know, all thats needed is bigger tractor. :poke:

I assume you got this fugured out over at FBBO yesterday?? The 3681053 and 3515841 numbers are your application for the trans.. 4221 and 3496 will tell you in a 10,000 day calender the date they were built.... the last two four digit numbers are not important for your query...

This

There are three different spline angles in the 727 front planetary. The spline included angles are as follows: '62-'75= 90° '76-'93= 75° '94-on= 60° The spline angles are sometimes expressed as the pressure angle which is half the included angle (45°, 37.5°, 30°) Each change affected the...

Made on May 14, 1976. The other was made Oct 30th, 1972. I dont see the exact application for the other one either.... Seems to be a truck trans, is this the motorhome one??

Tailstock, not tailshaft. Only place ive ever seen one crack is at the bushing area, whilst pushing a new bushing in. Post up the PK numbers on the pan rail on the drivers side.... with those numbers we can tell how robust the internals are.

So, likely all original inside. Your options are 1.) Sell it 2.) Rebuild as-is. Torque converters are available for those if you need one, but are more limited. 3.) Upgrade the front half of the trans with a later model (after '66) parts trans. A&A Transmission is a good choice for the...

Count the spines on the input shaft... maybe someone has already updated it to later front clutch?? 19 splines if it's still old stuff.

'65... Early trans with slip yoke, so that used to be the desirable one for folks wanting to eliminate the bolt-on driveshaft. Most likely "B" Body, standard or 4-bbl carb.

A lot of folks consider '65 and earlier to be "early". Those are very different externally as well and a whole lot less interchanges with "late" trannies. Most common parts interchange on '71? and up.

Well, it was the 48th transmission built on Wednesday, April 5th, 1978. I can see that much. So, definitely not an early style. I'd say it might be a desirable trans and could have good intenals, but, I can't really read the 7-digit identifier number that tells me more about the application...

Pick up the common rebuild guides that are available.....best to take some measurements before and during teardown. And of course the proper thicknesses you are asking about are also explained.

1964 and earlier.

An accurate 8 3/4" rear axle width list

My '69 is tight too. But there's always a way. On mine, someone smashed the seam flat between the firewall and the floor in the tunnel area just to get another half inch wiggle room. You can always take out a motor mount and let the motor drop down to gain a little too, if jacking the trans...

No Why not just throw his VB in and be done with it??

Good question.... but does'nt the unit need to know that there is sufficient line pressure to hold? Normally this is all done within the VB and the trans itself... No ports to the case, AFAIK. How would you monitor?? Seems like a lot of trouble.

:popcorn: I didnt know the method you are trying is even an option. What was holding it in??? Just press fit?

Im sure everyone knows youre referring to the tailstock.... super easy swap.... Tailshaft is fine, and doesnt need to change.

Whats the convertor snout look like?? When you get another pump gear, I'd slide it on the snout just to see if it goes easily. Also, really surprised to hear "polished into a diamond shape" I'm thinking it already looked like that??

Pretty sure theres a date, right on the outer edge of the ring gear, along with ratio and other info.

Thats an awesome find!! As far as the converter goes, if you are'nt putting that car back together !00% concours, I would just use the higher stall that was specified and run a good sized cooler cut into the trans cooler lines. Chances are it will be fine. You can add a temperature sensor...

yes

'65 and up were the modern axle set-up. '64 was the last of the tapered ones. However, it should be noted for the purpose of the OP's question, that if you are re-doing everything anyway (or the axle has already been converted), that a 62 or 63 "B" body housing is the narrowest one, and the '64...

So, shifter moves..... Have you verified that goes in and out of Park when not running...cant move the car, etc. How much fluid did you drain?? How much have you put back in?? Did it suck it up as you go thru the gears? Always check level in Neutral.

Make sure the brakes look good. Change the Lube, if you don't see any huge red flags there, just run it and worry about it later..... If you have no motor in the car, then concentrate on that for now!!

Someone must understand what this guy's whole combo is, but it sure ain't me lol. Is there a link to his previous thread??