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From the sounds of what you described something should be fairly obvious. Or, maybe a better description is in order.

He says the engine revs but the car doesn’t seem to accelerate. It’s either slipping or the converter is trashed. Either way it warrants a pan drop as an inspection.

If the trans did what you described with the new fluid it would smell like a forest fire. Drop the pan and post a couple of pics. That will tell a lot. Sounds like a burnt forward clutch to me, and possibly the front band.

When I did mine they only made a kit without any speed adjustments, so I built this setup myself.

I have a 42RH in my dart that shifts OD and lockup fully automatically by using pressure switches off the governor port of the trans. The switches are even adjustable so you can set your preferred shift speeds. Or turn both off to simulate a standard 904. Same can be done with the 46RH and...

Yea, I saw that video. The thing is, if I was working with some of the stuff he does I would hack some of it too.

Is it possible that the bearings you got years ago were better quality? Maybe. I take all the YouTubers with a grain of salt, and some are so hack I have to change the channel, so please don’t think I fall for everything anyone else says or does. Speaking from first hand knowledge on the...

Have you seen Chris Birdsong’s video on green bearings? He REALLY hates them. Junkerup on YouTube. Found it.

Don’t understand why anyone would put “green” bearings in their car. Overall unreliable POS. The factory bearings are WAY better. A buddy had fairly new ones and one let go on the hiway while we were going to a car show 90 miles away. Blew gear oil all over the entire back end of his car and...

If that boot is left unfolded you will probably be smelling burnt rubber, or it could actually catch on fire from the friction. I would cut that boot off. Lots of these cars never had the boot in the first place.

Sorry, no idea. I have 18’s on the back and 17’s on the front.

Usually when the housing breaks it’s because of an out of balance driveshaft. Too long and they jam the trans internals together causing end play clearances to go away and smashing parts together.

Had a brand new one built and it was about the same.

I know it sucks to wait, but it is always best to measure once the trans is in.

Missing or broken return spring on the TP lever will cause varying degrees of late shifts at light throttle.

If you ever worked in a trans shop you would see that almost every day. Front seal can go bad, or even pop out. Pump gasket can leak. Pump bushing can go, causing the seal to leak. A cracked converter snout can make it where you need a new pump, gears, bushing, seal and converter. Not meant to...

The thick weights only. The little thin ones if any were for the initial balancing, and not for crank balance.

Pulled the axles and it was quiet and smooth? Um, two years ago or not it points to axle bearings. It sure is easy to check em while they’re out.

How far and at what speed do you need to move it? There is an acceptable distance with the driveshaft installed. I believe the trans is basically in neutral when there is no electrical power to it.

Usually at the top of the pump housing itself behind the converter. Some have the vent in the top of the case behind the pump and converter.

I left that out because he said he was changing the filter and fluid soon. :D

Absolutely it could be low fluid. The smell doesn’t sound very good either. The shaking was likely clutches slipping. Did you know that a 904 or 727 either one will spit out fluid if it’s overly full? Doesn’t hurt it either. Put another half a quart in it and see how it acts.

Should be exactly the same, since everything involved is exactly the same.

So simple a caveman can do it. :D

Been running Type F in my A500 for almost ten years of daily driving with zero issues. Just like the 727 and 904, these things would run on used french fry oil.

I have to agree. 40 mph off isn’t something a gear change is going to fix. Something is wrong with the speedo head.

The simplified answer is if you have to move the shifter for it to shift at all, it’s probably a manual valve body. I agree about the pin sticking up not having a lever on it for a long time, so it may very well be a manual shift race setup, which is common. If you put the rear up on stands and...

If you’re trans has been modified to full manual then its fine like it is with no (throttle pressure) accessories. If it’s an automatic shifting trans then you MUST have that hooked up and working or you WILL burn up the trans. The simplest way of getting it hooked up is to use a cable...

Late, but better than never. I have a thing about any rubber in trans lines because that’s what caused the loss of my 440 69 Roadrunner. It blew a line and I went to get new line and fluid. When I got back it had every panel including the roof caved in and it was on fire. (Total loss) That...