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is it sad that i have long since stopped checking my own thread? never did get any pictures of what i was looking for, but hopefully will when one poster comes back from out of country. that will tell me what i need to know. michael

Do you have any pics? Especially of the driveshafyt in the tunnel?

im shocked to see this thread come back. i did bite the bullet and put 900 into my 8.75. i have killed it again already. less than 3k on it. the rearend guy is going to stand behind it and warrenty it, though. this was with a 400 at the wheels small block on 240 treadwear tires. and a 4...

so i killed the a833 in my duster, and am swapping in a tremec. also changing the leaking oil pan gasket at the same time. seems to me the easiest way to get all my parts out, while doing the least amount of work, would be to pull the whole drivetrain as a unit out of the bottom. this...

so, i built my car close ro a decade ago, and have built quite a few others since then. car is a 70 duster 4 speed car. when i built it this last time, i used a lakewhood bellhousing and block plate. i did no tranny tunnel mods, firewall mods, etc for the installation of the bellhousing...

exactly my thoughts. but the pinion is heavily offset in these rear ends, and i already hit my mufflers with the 8.75 pinion yoke under hard lateral acceleration. thats why im concerned about the pinion location in the car.

so im doing a tko 500 in my 70 duster. im not using a kit, and have a few questions/need for suggestions. following the sticky over on moparts, ive sourced the pilot bearing, throwout bearing for my stock clutch setup, and turned down mt input bearing retainer. also modifying my lakewood when i...

THANK YOU!!!!!!! you just made my life easy. well, easier than i was making it with my tunnel mods for my TKO swap. i love thius forum.

id still really like to see a stock width 8.8 explorer swap into an a-body. it would be a lot easier in my case, and im sick of fighting with my 8.75. over a grand in it, and its still noisy when it heats up. and no rear discs. anyone have any pics they can share? expecially of where the...

yup. i agree. but i finally came to the comclusion that to do a five speed for a reasonable amount of money, im goiung to have to cut. so im picking up a tko, and breaking out the welder. i figure i can make my t-bar crossmember stronger AFTER being cut in half than mopar made it as a...

http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82618&highlight=t-5 http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=26816

ive been looking into the mustang t-5 swap for about a year now. theres plenty of guys that have done it. with an 89 model t5, should be a workd class. this is a quickie rundown, as im hopped up on cold medicine and not very coherent. my swap plans redrill lakewood for t-5 bolt...

i use por15, covered with the semi-gloss from john deere. on the 8.75 hogshead, i use duplicolor cast orpn engine paint. same with the drums. looks really good, and holds up incredibly well.

due to my various threads on this topic, ive got some ideasd to try. the car had started to die out when coming to a stop at the end of last summer according to the owner, and hes never had a good idle. first step is going to br checking his base timing and seeing where thats at. get it...

ive been working on a 68 hemi roadrunner all day, trying to finish the EZ EFI swap. it starts and idles great, but anytime you pull it into gear (automatic), it lurches and dies. the idle is set at 1000 RPM. it feels like when you are sitting at idle in a stick car and let out the clutch. just...

my rear end rebuilder told me that i need to change the oil in it after abiut 159 miles. of course, i thought to ask this AFTER i reassembled the unit..... so i was rereading the mopar action article on drilling and tapping a pipe plug into the bottom of the housing. this just seems like its...

ive never heard of a 3.31 ratio for our 8,75. you sure of thise numbers?

Ive got a 489 case 3.55 clutch type sure grip in my 70 duster. (bought it used) i finally made up my mind that I'm not going to screw around with doing the 8.8 swap, as i just hate c-clips. (had an axle exit the truck at work recently....) so I'm starting to work on the 8.75. i fixed my rear...

just finally found these at jegs. hope theyre right when they come in. 88 and change shipped. http://www.jegs.com/i/Strange-Engineering/873/A1022/10002/-1?parentProductId=746832 thanks for all the help, guys. hopefully this will cure some of my problems. michael

ive heard that before from various sources, and ive heard it refuted as well. i know with my experience, i bought used moser axles and green bearings with unknown milage and abuse. put 12K on them myself, and an extreme amount of abuse back when it was my daily in college in the mountains...

if someone could get the number for me, that would be great. i cant have the car down in my work bay too long. cant make any money that way... and id go to the local parts house, if we had one. weve got a NAPA, autozone, and advance. i buy my parts from NAPA for just that reason. michael

id happily by from dr. diff, but hes out and wont have any for a few weeks. id like to get this car back under me sooner than that, if possible. ive already missed driving it to my 10 year high school reunion, and on my birthday. dont wanna miss our beach trip in the beginning of november...

ive had a set for 12 years in my 8.75. one has gone bad, and i still havent decided on wether or not im going 8.8. id like to finish the fall out before tearing major into the car anyway. so im going to throw another set of green bearings at it. ive looked all over, and seen a bunch of...

yup. no plans to narrow it. what is the flange to flange width of a big bolt a-body 8.75? if i can find an accurate number for that, i can see what were looking at as far as total width differnce. also, the reason im worried about clearance to my exhaust is due to my 3 inch TTI system...

the main concerns i have are wether or not the driveshaft flange will contact my exhaust, and if i will lose any tire clearance over my big bolt a-body rear with 1 inch spacers. things are already very tight on the pass side, but i have 1/2-3/4 clearacne on the ddrivers. strenght is not a...

cheaper. 200 for rear discs and no noise. also a good limited slip.

i am not equipped to rebuild my hogshead myself. the good shop a few town over qupted me 900. this is my 4th bad hogshead in a row. this one lasted longer than the rest, though. well, except for the 3.23 sure grip. that was a good one.... to be honest, im getting sick of the 8.75 goving...

gears and bearings went south. bearings prsumably went first, followed closely by the gears. and i know most guys sont like to interbreed, but it doesnt bother me a bit. michael

so we've decided beyond a reasonable doubt that the 8.75 in my duster is done for. its a damn shame since its got new brakes, fresh moser axles, etc. with that being said, I'm not spending 900 to rebuild the hogshead (cheapest i could find around here). i however have read and heard about...

what kind of noises would that make? and also, would i detect play at the wheel?