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Talked to my tranny builder. Snug the front band, and back off 1.5 turns. 1/4” space for the rear band. It’s still delayed between the 2-3 shift, but it’s been deadly consistent on the track. Just need to get through one more weekend after this :lol:

It’s strange because mine doesn’t flare up. It just has a moment where it’s between shifts like a stock valve body. Feels like the 68rfe in my diesel shifting. It could be a VB problem as I’ve had trouble with it before. Coan made me a good converter, but their VBs suck.

That’s how I do it too. I don’t get on the throttle until the top amber comes on, and launch at 3200.

Mine also has a brake.

Probably is. 5 seasons out of it so far. My last one made it 13 years, but it was behind less power and no brake.

I neglected to do this the past couple seasons. Didn’t make many passes last year, and I didn’t think to do it when changing the fluid this spring. The 2-3 shift started getting lazy during the races in Boise. I bet the bands are about toast, but I was going to pull the trans to be redone this...

I searched, and couldn’t find the answer I’m satisfied with. I need to adjust the bands in my race only RMVB 727. I’ve read the specs are 72 in/lbs on both adjusters, back the rear one off 2.5 turns and the front anywhere from 2 to 4 turns. I’ve also read to snug them down until the driveshaft...

Working on shortening the driveshaft. Right now as is there’s only about 1/2” in and out play at the yoke. Wanted to take an inch off the shaft giving me 1.5” slip yoke play. The splines on the yoke are 5.5” deep, which gives me 4” of splines engaged on the output shaft at rest.

Not really noticeable to me. I’m sure it’ll feel like a different car now. It was scrubbing the slicks pretty good, and the right side was rubbing on the quarter a bit. I didn’t plan on running the car at all this year with the bent housing, but the S60 took four months to show up.

Best so far is 6.92 1/8, 11.008 1/4 at 6000’ DA.

Don’t know how much power it takes to bend an 8 3/4 in a 3000 pound car, but I’ve got enough to do it. Not sure if you can tell by the picture, but the right tube is bent forward 11/16”. So bad I had to pry on the moser axle shaft pretty hard to get it out. A back brace is definitely a...

Yeah I don’t quite qualify for one of those skateboard wheels yet. Maybe with the hemi it’ll need a set. I did the relocation and perches myself a few years ago. Unfortunately I wasn’t thinking correctly, and put a 0* angle on my pinion. This time I want the pinion down 2 degrees at least. Was...

I switched from the stock size driveshaft and stock U-joints to the larger aluminum shaft and 1350 joints. I didn’t gain or lose any time. The extra weight of the bigger joints evened out with the aluminum shaft I guess.

I decided to buy the Strange 60 over a moser. Prices are similar, and the S60 is lighter. Does anyone know off hand what the spring perch center to center measurement on relocated springs is? Without pulling the axle off it looks like 35 5/8”. Also going to have them angle the pinion down 4...

Yes I’m currently using a 1350 joint.

That sucks, I’ll have to send my aluminum shaft off to be shortened.

Does the driveshaft have to be lengthened or shortened vs an 8 3/4?

Both my LA 410 and a hemi stroker are fairly modest RPM engines especially running methanol. The LA peters out about 6400. Falls on its face with the 4.30s after the 1000’. Wasn’t a big deal racing 1/8 mile, but a majority of passes will be on a 1/4 now.

I was planning on a 4.10 gear with the 28” tires.

I’d keep the 3.91s if you’re just doing a lot of city driving. I’d you’re dying to swap then go 3.23.

Prior to stuffing a 600+ hp gen 3 hemi in my drag car Duster I’m going to first change the 8 3/4 diff. The 8 3/4 is living on borrowed time as it is with 1.45 second 60’ times even with the crappy 410 LA motor. I’d like to use a D60 instead of a 9” since the price for one ready to roll is about...

Hopefully my reply didn’t sound arrogant as it wasn’t intended to be. In my naivety I was merely going by what the Chrysler specs were for the 489. The 741, and 742 are different specs. Wasn’t sure if I should go with different since I eliminated the crush sleeve, or stick to their specs...

The specs say 14-19 in lbs for new bearings on a 489 case, so that’s what I was going by.

Had I not just bought these new 4.30s I would have considered it.

I have a setup question. I have never correctly set up a rear end (have used the old “feels good there” method), and wanted to make sure I’m doing it right on this one. On the pinion I used the same thickness of shims that were on the old pinion, and then used a crush sleeve eliminator. Followed...

Good news is the locker is perfectly fine other than some stray particles from the gears making their way inside.

It’s an aftermarket 489 case. I’m going to eliminate the crush sleeve which I thought I did when it was put together several years ago. Going to fix this one, and start saving for an S60 or 9”. Also going to build a new driveshaft with 1350 joints.

Transbrake car, and it happened as soon as the button was released. I heard a noise after the previous run, and had a feeling it was going to let go. The trans has low band apply in first, so hopefully it didn’t destroy anything internally. If it did then my season is over with a 11 round lead...

After many, many years my 8 3/4 finally gave up. Not sure if I lost a carrier (Detroit locker), or the gear set. Now the decision is to fix the 8 3/4, or go to a 9”. 1.50 60’ car with 4.30s. Happened in the 1/4 finals of Pro class at our local track. The poor guy in the other lane red lit, so at...

Pulled the VB out, and found where the piece is supposed to live. I’m stumped as to where the other pieces that should have been in the pan are. No spring, or any kind of retaining pieces. It’s a Coan pro tree VB, and the passageway is larger than factory. I pulled the VB out of one of my other...