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If its a slant it has to be the 904. They didn't make the 727 for the slant 6. There is a way to tell just by the pan on the small blocks though the 727 pan has an extra jog out in the corner. It is hard to explain in words but very easy to identify if you can see the two side by side. Hopefully...

I don't know the exact part numbers for the seals but I had to get them for my wifes 72 dart last month and those seals are outragous at napa they were around 20 bucks each I think i ended up finding them for 16 bucks each but still that was crazy. The later 7.25 with the big bolt pattern uses a...

i have to say one thing as far as the 9 inch it would be easier to find and cheaper but you have to keep in mind the 9 inches people are running under race cars that are bulletproof are in no way stock most have very little if any factory components left in them. If i were you i would stick with...

im sorry your right it is 12 points but it still takes the 1/2 drive setup there may be a special tool for it but the 1/2 drive works great it may be 12 point to make sure you can get the ratchet into it at any angle you just have use 4 points of that bolt and youll disregard the other 8 good...

i may be mistaken but you can still use a 1/2 drive breaker bar or ratchet in that plug i know i have its just an 8 point star drive so you can just use four of those points with the 1/2 drive breaker bar or ratchet i reccomend a breaker bar if you have it good luck Justin

the c body axles can be resplined for an a body housing they are wide enough and dont taper down like the b and e body axles do i dont know about the truck and van axles though if so that is good to know i see a lot of trucks and vans with 8 3/4s around here but not many c bodies anymore thanks...

Hey guys i was just wondering if anyone could help me. I am looking at a 7.25 for my duster its only a slant and its staying that way but anyway the guy is saying he thinks its a sure-grip. How can i tell i mean im willing to take the inspection cover off and look inside but im just wondering...

you need to make sure you get the u bolt shock brackets and if possible the u bolts as the 8 1/4 is different than the 7 1/4. If the car you are looking at still has the rearend in it you can just take them off that car. If not the 8 1/4 stuff is the same as any 8 3/4 a b e or c body i believe...

great since i am just learning things about them maybe you should send me that one for free as a reference tool longgone :toothy10::toothy10::toothy10: but seriously thanks a lot longgone that is just what i needed. Justin

not trying to go off topic but does anyone have a pic of the clutch type so i can tell the difference when i find one thanks guys Justin

yeah they can be modified but i agree with fishy 68 let someone with a jig do it for you but if you can get it for a good price and it has 3.55s and a sure grip you should jump on it keep in mind the center section alone is worth450.00+ so if you got a good price lined up you could even just use...

from what i have found out the 8 3/4 is usually enough for most anything you do to an a body but the dana 60 is stronger and when built right most say pretty much bulletproof so if you can get a good deal on that one id go with the 60 then there isnt anything you couldnt throw in your dart...

i dont have any personal experience with them but i have heard and read says to stay away from the cone type if possible and go with the clutch type if you hav the option but if someone more knowledgeable says im wrong i would listen to them like i said i havent had either yet.

yeah it seems like a great deal if everything is useable the sure grip unit alone is 599.95 new from summit and the gears are probably another 200 or so at 75 bucks you cant go wrong you can always get your money back and then some. Justin

congrats glad it went easy for you this time now drive it and have some fun

i had a neon do something similar a few months ago i just dropped the pan changed the fluid and filter but it wasnt really slipping just didnt want to upshift. My dart was doing the same thing though when i first got it. It was low on fluid i did the same thing dropped the pan changed the filter...

Even if it was rebuilt only six months ago if they used a cork gasket that may be the problem i have yet to get a cork gasket that didnt leak after only a few months. I have had great luck with atp gaskets i have so far only found them at napa. They are a black rubber type gasket no need to...

I had a trans in a gm once that did the same thing. It ended up being i changed the trans filter and added fresh clean fluid. Maybe try that not sure if thats it but if you havent done it yet and you are not sure how long its been since its been done it couldnt hurt anyway by the way if you do...

any abody 8 3/4 will fit but since yours is a 75 you will need one with big bolt pattern axles i think that is probably what your 8 1/4 would be. the 72 and older factory 8 3/4 for the a body were the small bolt pattern setups so if you get one of those you would have to change axles.