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next on the list! Great thread!

yeah I read your original question wrong, I failed to see the "B" in it and I was just referencing all 8 3/4's in general. So by me saying I wanted to stick with BBP, I was referencing that If I needed to shorten the housing, and needed to buy A body axles I wanted to make sure I bought BBP...

Badsport, do you happen to have any bigger pics posted? I'd like to see how the wheels sit on your car

Yea my 74 Dart Sport. I was looking to basically just buy as least as possible, I was going to order some new axles from superior axle for a abody, and then just get the housing shortened. No Kiddin?? Wow, this may be all i need to do for a while, ive noticed how far that the back wheels sit...

so I bought a 67 charger shell that had a drum to drum 8 3/4 for $100, too good of a deal to pass up. I intend to put it in my 74, so my question is, can I buy aftermarket a-body axles, and just have the housing shortened or am I going to need to get some different pieces. any help would be...

Both the trans guys I used to work/with for always said to not run a trans cooler trough the radiator. I've always bypassed it, then again I live in Houston and there is slight to no chance that my trans will ever operate "too cool".

I'm a Hurst guy myself, although im going with that cheatah in my 74 when I convert it to a race care. I use a Hurst Pro Matic 2, and Love it, been in 2 vehicles, beat to hell and still kicking!

kinda got the same situation. I pulled the motor and trans out to paint and install my shift kit. Trans works great, but now I have no speedo. I don't recall touching the speedometer housing at all, I only took out the valve body. So not sure why its not working If I didn't touch anything. Cable...

there is an easy tip i think might help. If you pull the cap off the Distributor before loosening or moving it you can take a felt tip marker or a piece of tape and mark where the rotor is facing on the distributor itself. Only thing is, make sure you do this AFTER removing the torque...

I also skipped this step when I put mine in, the option of downshifting to first at any speed sounds like an accident waiting to happen. Maybe its good for road racing or something.

I have an 92 dakota that I used to have a small block LA motor in it. I was a major dak enthusiast and long story short the truck got ran into during a reassembly. I'm going to use that 8.25 in my 73 here eventually. I haven't measured it out yet, but I don't think it should have to be narrowed...

so, I bought a TF-1 kit from transgo and must of either typoed it or read the description wrong. Does any one know the physical difference between the 2 and or if I can make the TF-1 shift like the TF-2?? (say with a diff drill bit size not included)

Hey man, maybe I can help... i used to work at a late model performance shop that delt mostly with 4l60E rebuilds. Here is your first problem, a 4L60E is an electronic trans that is controlled by an ecm. This ecm trans accompanies a fuel injected sb chevy either being vortec/lt1/ls1. Depending...

damn thats a pretty car! Looks like you have my same problem... Won't turn for S%#T lol, takes me at least 1 back-up to get in my garage... That Cam, is it hydro or roller?

hahaha thanks man, ive done some many R & R trans jobs when I was turning wrenches for a living it becomes clock work. I could R & R a late model f-body trans in and out in less that 45 mins combined. Of course this was with a lift and air tools haha

OH NO! Sorry to hear man, yeah you cannot stab an AUTO tranny like a CLUTCH. 2 very different animals. This is 100% the problem. The converter must be inserted into the trans and alligned with the front pump. With trans out of car, Carefully put the converter over the input shaft and push...

when you bolted the converter to the flexplate, did the converter spin freely to line up the holes? Or did ya have to kinda force it? Also, to get to all the converter bolts you would of had to spin the motor, was there any problem doing this?

Trans is smashing your converter to your flexplate. 99.8% sure the converter is not seated in the trans. When unbolted the converter should spin freely when the bell housing is completely bolted to the motor. If you have The trans bolted up and no bolts in torque converter and cannot spin it by...