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i feel very seen.

same here. i found a 340 in a van with a 2bbl intake on it. i was looking for mini starters and just happened upon it. never know what you'll find lurking about...

it's not necessarily scrap, but economy starts to become a factor as well as limits of the block-- taper, strength, heat control, etx. sure you could sleeve it off, but that's another 1K on top of whatever else you need. i'd consider going to 60 on a stock or very close to stock rebuild, but...

i sold a date coded 69 340 short block at spring fling in 23 for $500 forged crank, it was 30 over and needed a sleeve in one cylinder. still had the windage tray. it was gone before lunch. i had sold the x heads at the previous fall fling, they needed a full go thru and one of the rockers...

derp. thanks for bringing it to my attention. editeded 100% on the low deck motor having more space, it's about on par with a small block with headers to be honest.

i'd say carry on with the chonk block. you've got the big pieces so you're most of the way there, and the bonus is that it sounds as if it's a healthy unit with some choice bits and bobs to boot. basically you'd be looking at figuring out cooling-- which you may already have covered, but if not...

*ahem* please refer to the style guide. it should read: "that's a hard no from me" i don't know why i even bother sending out the emails

agreed, decent stuff is getting harder to find. there's tons of clapped out junk at crack pipe prices though. spring/fall fling is usually the spot for a wheelin' dealin' on a 340. @GTX JOHN has some 340 cores and delivers to the socal area pretty frequently. i'll keep an eye out for ya

not the 2.8 he's asking. and it's been up for months... condition is king and there's just so many unknowns on this. pan says it was in something non-a body which begs: is the windage tray still present? is that a broke off exhaust stud in the upper #2 port? where's the 90* adapter? no...

a lot of the high heat products require you to bake them for hours in thermal cycles for correct cure. with the modern paints available i think there are better options, and pricing (have you *seen* the price of VHT lately?!?). if you're not particular about color, appliance epoxy will cure...

think these are the guys you might be looking for...

man, the amount of time and man power you'd need to blow apart that many cars and then bag/tag, warehouse, sell and ship the **** is unfathomable. and then figure out what to do with the carcasses. woof. it hasn't

it was a nice little find out there in a sea of crappy fast food. funny looks from the girls behind the counter aside, it was good food. i'd 100% stop by there again if in the area. and the gals can be forgiven cuz i looked like i'd been rolling around out in a ditch moving a body-- i'm...

i mean yeah, i was up there dropping off some parts too.. wait... my legal team is signaling something to me? oh. it seems i've said enough. look i bought some car parts, hit the hesperia pick your part, had a sandwich at vitelli's and drove home. that's it. nothing more.

sorry, i should've provided some exposition. Race Across America (RAAM) is a bicycle race that began in 1982 apologies for being pedantic

i was up i apple valley for some parts a few months ago and rolled back to LA via 138 that evening. at night, even though it is a major highway there are parts that are totally unlit and you're not seeing more than 30 foot or so past the shoulder; and there are whole miles long stretches of...

it was One Lap of America http://www.onelapofamerica.com/home.do https://www.allpar.com/d3/history/mopar/lapping-valiant.html https://www.moparaction.com/2016/03/16/one-lap/

that's my thought. hadn't been checked in on and when old mother hubbard showed up the cupboard was bare. one car? two or three? okay, yeah... but scooping up and disappearing pert near a dozen? that's denmark rotten levels.

i'm local-ish so i'll put the word out on the wire and keep a hairy eyeball peeled.

same here, i've done miles of one wheel peels in clapped out 318 cars with 7.25's and never had a problem. but those were all with like 195/70-14's that were hard as rocks. same situation knocked on a set of 215/60's and scattered the thing goosing it on a RH turn. lost an axle on another at...

jeebus. dodged a bullet there. don't bother with any lottery tickets for awhile, you done used up all your good luck on that one! ETA: the paint looks fantastic!

x2 on contacting B3 racing. trying some hokey back yard workaround will only result in damaging expensive parts.

anything but KYB. top of the line monroe, gabriels or sachs are okay for drivers that have stock springs/t-bars.

if those missing headlights are feeding twin spools... i'm oddly okay with this. otherwise, that's gonna be a no from me dawg.

100% agree. the further annoyance is amplified when you wind up having to use like three adapters to make the damn thing work. which just cheezes me to no end. it looks bobo, that's just more potential points of failure, and in my particular case there was just no room to operate in the space...

that was the problem i ran into. the spec for the SW gauges was just different enough from autometer and universal that they either flat *** wouldn't work or the reading was inconsistent enough to give me pause. i'm sure there could be a work around but i just splashed the $30 for the SW temp...

yeah, that's pretty much the game. i just went thru this whole hoopla with a temp & fuel gauge, thought i'd save a few bux and order up some "universal" units, and after a few rounds of dicking around with crap *** crap quality and rubegoldbergain fittings and tearing my hair out over how much...

SW stuff works with their sending units. you can buy aftermarket/generic sending units but it's kind of a crap shoot as to the accuracy and quality. they 100% don't work with stock sending units-- at least the ones i tried.

*pfft* your loss, amigo.

come have it look, it's ssssmmmmooootttthhhh....