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1...Drain. Start with a 12V test lamp. Disconnect battery ground, and put the lamp between battery post and ground. Does it light? Check everything imaginable. Is lighter pulled out, glove box lamp out, trunk light? Then move to your multimeter, put that in series on the high amps...

A voltmeter AT THE battery will tell you that as well. That is part of the reason I emphasize voltage checks. Crank the engine cold and hot, with your probes stuck into the tops of the battery posts. If the battery is known to be charged, and the voltage sags anywhere near 10V or...

By the way with that much drop, I'd start by feeling around the cable connections for "warm." Could even just be a dirty battery clamp at the posts

You have to check and find out!!! Voltage drop is just like a diagram---follows a road, follows a road map. If you hit a chuckhole (bad connection at a terminal) that is a drop right at the terminal. If you hit a narrow road (long length of wire) that is drop over a distance/ length of...

THIS. You MUST test under load "cranking." That is the way voltage drop works. If you can't measure the battery in the trunk by yourself, "rig" some wire from the meter up front to the battery. Use your head. You can use an extension cord, EG example: Get an extension long...

Tim where did you get that chart? There are all kinds of them, and "some disagreement" LOL. AC ampacity is not to be used for automotive. Also, FOOTAGE of the total wire matters I'm not claiming this website is more accurate, but quite different results...

Yeh the points or pickup is what triggers the spark. The rotor is not really a great index, although you can certainly get it close enough to fire.

Sounds like you have the right idea BUT.......... Do you understand about "compression stroke?" You must get no1 on compression. Pull no1 plug, bump engine, with your finger in no1 hole, and feel for compression. Then as it "starts to" compress, look for the marks and bring them up...

I would do the following 1...Install some sort of method to get an accurate voltmeter on the block and starter stud, so you can measure batt V while cranking. One way is to simply get a couple of no 14 or smaller wire size eyelets with 3/8 eyes, get some scrap wire any size, 18-14...

I am somewhat dismayed by some of the comments here. Some folks might read these and conclude that mopar alternators bad, "1 wire" magically good." I owned my first 69 RR in 1970 for a short time, then my 70 in about early 72. By about 75 or 6 I had a clapped out 64 FJ-40 Landcruiser...

The oil pressure tapping goes all the way down through the engine and out the bottom, with another branch gallery meeting it. There's a small cup plug has to be up in there to separate the two. Discussion of that area...

Actually, it doesn't--or didn't. The original Delco integrals back in the day were 3 wire, just like Mopar. And I'll poke in my usual warning: DO NOT stick a huge, great big, not to mention quite large "one wire" on there without properly sizing the charge wire, and that means either...

OK let's go through this again The ignition switch has B for BATTERY and that is the ONLY power going into the switch The ACC (accessory) output feeds out to the buss in the fuse box for acessories and is hot in BOTH "run" and "acc" and is cold in "start." The S START...

I explained it to you if you read my post. The key in the start position, completely changes the circuit.

...........And please,...........PLEASE.........do not call a "poly" engine a "wide block."

You may have somehow developed reverse polarity in the distributor pickup circuit. AKA if you reverse the two pickup wires, this changes the timing relative to where the rotor is pointing to the cap contacts. This has become known as "rotor phasing." You can search that phrase, there are...

The water pump thing tells you nothing, except that the engine is presently equipped with the earlier pump setup. They made 340s like that as well I always start with the numbers on the block under the driver side head parting line, as mentioned above. If that does not resolve the issue...

That is a bit difficult IF THE ENGINE IS IN THE CAR LOLOL

I don't think there was such a thing as "untrue" double rollers before the chinese came along.

As someone said, compression, spark, fuel I would: 1....Run compression test and leakdown test. 2....Waste no more time with fuel. Squirt some fuel in the intake, just like you would if a carb was not getting fuel. Inspect plugs for wet/ foul 3....Devise a way to check cam timing...

The crank and damper are not the problem. You can stick the newer or older timing cover/ pulleys/ etc on the front with no issues. Some years have a symmetrical pattern for the pulley bolt holes, and some do not. It is common to either leave the odd bolt out or oblong the hole in the...

Coolant ports ALL American SB's that I can recall are made this way, Ford, GM, Mopar. They are made this way because the heads are reversible side to side, and therefore must be non "left or right." Actually some racers add fittings to the rear ports and hook hoses in to...

You either need a V8 K or what are called "swap" engine mounts. There are a acouple of manufacturers, I've forgotten where they ended up, as one outfit sold You will need a bell FOR AN A body. Pickup/ van bells won't work.. Wander over to an outfit called Brewer's Performance. The...

1......Install small port small chamber 273 heads. 2......-------------------------------------------------------------

That is amazing. Sad, as well.

Please do not use the term "turned over" if you mean "it runs" DEFINITIONS: "Starter works," "cranks," "turns over." This means that when you twist the key to the "start" position, the engine rotates as would be expected when attempting to start "Fires." This means that when...

Head gaskets will not fit "wrong"

Depends on price and condition. AND WHAT year? Might be a Poly, is it even an LA? What year? You at minimum will need to Either get 6 to 8 "swap" mounts or drum up a V8 K member for your car Likely need different exhaust manifolds Need proper engine brackets (engine to mount...

There IS argument as to a trade off, but You'll never see it in a mild 318. There is argument that fully grooved are weaker in a high performance situation---less bearing surface area. Remember, when it fires, it is stressing the CAP

Know what I think? I think you are full of crap Bye