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These are the heads I'm using.

This 340 is using stock 1970 intake manifolds, 340 exhaust manifolds. Heads are U castings, 2.02 intake, bowl ported.

Does anyone have any experience with this cam in a 340 stroked to a 416? Thanks Darren

Hey Jimmy, I see the dot on the second ring, but I was referring to the top ring. I found the ring manufactures instructions to be a little vague on my set. I'd be more interested in seeing if the chamfer on the top ring is facing up(towards cylinder head) than I would the dots. I learned a...

O.k., I had the same issue on my 408, however my endgap was not the problem. MASSIVE blowby, and 180 psi crank pressure. Endgap @ .020. I had the top rings installed upside down, meaning the internal chamfer was pointing down instead of up. It blew my front main seal outward. My car still ran...

Hang on to your shorts my friend. Your going to think someone placed a big block under that hood. Actually, you will embarass some big block people and hand them their proverbial gluteous maximus!

I have searched high and low for one of these things. My 408 stroker did not have one, and it blew oil out the front main seal profusely. I have sweated my rear off, pulling the whole front end off of one 67 Plymouth SB and an early 90's Magnum SB in a wrecking yard, and neither of them had this...

The shiny spots are on the opposite side of the chamfer of the rods. They are not shiny on the chamfered side of the rod.

I haven't switched any rods around if thats what you are talking about. Yes they are offset to one side, away from the chamfer. However I am still finding the shiny spot on the edge of the bearing. Would it help to change rods in some different locations?

It's on the outside edges of the shells. I called Bob Mazzolini whom I'd purchased my Scat crank from and he told me after speaking with Scat, that I had the correct bearing. Could it be that I'm using Eagle I-beam SIR rods with a Scat crank? Do I need H beams instead? I could probably switch a...

That's what I have now.

Yeah, I checked that out, and the chamfer on the rods are towards the fillets in the crank. I guess I just need those chamfered bearings.

Thanks moper, I really appreciate your advice and will get a set of chamfered bearings. I value your experience and knowledge as well. Thanks so Much, Darren

Bump

If I can achieve side clearance, do I still need to get chamfered rod bearings? Do I need to rebalance as I had my machine shop balance everything with these bearings? :angry7:

Yep. Thats it. This is getting old, this not fitting that stuff. I bought the crank and bearings from Bob Mazzolini. I would have thought he could have sent me the right bearings.

O.k., yeah, another snag. I just switched over from an Eagle cast crank to a forged Scat crank. Problem is, when I reinstalled the Eagle Sir rods into the Scat crank, the rod side clearances were WAY too tight, as in no clearance. I fine filed the side of two rods, and gained a little, but did I...

I just disassembled my 408 and found the thrust bearing heavily worn. My thrust bearing surface on my Eagle crank is fried as well as the bearing. I had no problem with the flexplate or converter fitting in the hub of the crank when I built the engine 2 years ago. Although you can see where the...

I used Wells Racing in Duncanville, Tx for all my machine work. They do mostly circle track, however when I went and vistited, I noticed they had Hemis, 427 Fords, 409',s and a little of everything. I was surprised of their knowledge of Mopars, as they mostly do Chevy's. But I've heard great...

Believe it or not, adjusting the secondary butterflies helped as far as vacuum, and I have a lot less "flutter" now. It seems I can get close to 9 inches using the 4 corner idle and adjusting the secondary butterlies, however it doesn't want to idle well in gear. So I fattened it up just a...

Well, I'm running an MSD "Ready to Run" distributor with Vaccuum advance removed, only running mechanical, one silver spring, one blue, total timing @ 35*. Funny thing though, although it is a stroker, it seems to like more timing. I just put it at 35 because everyone says that's the limit on...

Interesting. I notice when I adjust my 4 corner idle with gauge, and the vacuum goes up, it will get to a point where it "whistles" through the carb, like it is sucking a lot of air. Then, if I idle it down with the idle adjustment screw, it will stop. Is this strange, or am I missing something...

Yes, it does a little bit.

My plugs look light brown now. These are new edelbrock heads. What would cause them not to seat properly?

Thanks DusterDon. I have about 8 inches of vacuum and a 4.5 pv.

O.k., I'm learning just enough to be dangerous now with a vacuum gauge. My Eddy headed 408 is coming around now, especially now that I also learned how to use the 4 corner idle with the vacuum gauge. But my concern is that the vacuum gauge flutters, and the reading I get from my gauge hooked up...

I have just driven my 408 on Saturday, and wow, I'm still on an adrenaline rush!!! I have the Edelbrock heads and I used the crane silver roller rockers with roller tip. I had Hughes custom grind my roller cam to match my combination and I just can't be happier. Now it's time for suspension work.

I wonder if I should go back into my engine. That would suck after all that work.

Just reading a CarCraft magazine and noticed an article about the chamfer on the washer that goes under the head of the main bolt. I put my chamfer facing down, away from the bolt head, however the article states the chamfer faces the head of the bolt. Do I need to recheck this before the engine...

This is the first I've heard of this. I installed a Milodon on my Magnum 408, it came with studs and spacers. I did a little bending here and there, spun the engine over on the stand and checked clearance. I thought the windage tray was a bonus, am I missing something?