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Thank you all for your replies. To answer some of your questions; I like what I have performance wise but have felt its a little flat and AJ has explained why. Budget wise, I was secretly hoping that I would get some support on the combination I had and could reuse a lot of it. Low thud...

I have a knock in my 318. Its definitely a lower end knock. My guess is a connecting rod. This is what I have; Bored .020 over stock pistons, rods, crank Compression ranged from 138 - 143 when I last checked it Comp cam XE262 262/270 duration, 462/470 lift 302 casting heads milled to 58 cc...

It's alive, it's alive! Points and condenser. Running like a charm. Very busy last two days and got back to it this morning. I checked the points gap and it was good, however the points seemed to have an arcing mark on them (pic in post #18). In the end I believe it was a bad condenser, but...

The carb has 700 miles on it, the distributor has about 300 miles on it. The cam has about 6000 miles on it and the engine has about 40,000 on it since a rebuild.

The contact pad has a brighter metal spot on 1/3 of the contact. It looks normal wear to me, not an arcing type burn. Check out post #18 the arcing on the backside of the points is not normal. I didn't post the pic,but that is my distributor.

I started this morning by changing the fuel filter. Then checked vacuum hoses and checked carb bolts (thanks post 8), all good. :thumbsup: I then went through carb tests, all indications is good fuel pressure, no float seat leaks and get fuel when manually pushing throttle, plus choke is not...

Grease

I just read this again and you have to disregard that. The dwell cant be jumping like that.

So, cap looks brand new as it should. Rotor looks brand new as it should. There was a small bit of oil on rotor shaft.

Fuel filter was changed

Done, waiting for reply.

I'm out for a drive on the highway. While driving I begin to notice a hesitation at 65 mph. It feels to me like a failing fuel pump. I do a return trip and get the same hesitation. I then go out 2 hours later and it starts to sputter badly over 30 mph. Luckily I'm in the city and I begin to...

Yep, this is what you need to do guys! If you give this forum the detailed info on your engine, drivetrain they can narrow down a solution. Trust me it's impressive to a guy with backyard mechanics skills needing diagnostic help. And they'll be right!! I've been helped several times.

Update - This is the correct problem. The PCV problem had been noted and corrected a while ago and the distributor leak was likely a result of the pvc issue. I removed the old distributor and had @halifaxhops build me a new one. I just got it installed and voila!, there is no longer oil...

My vacuum faces exactly where Kiyoshi's does. Additionally, mine fired up at 180 degrees out. I know because I made that mistake. It would fire up but not continue running. Personally, I saw those pics as; Remove distributor, spin rotor 180 and replace, then start it and run. I will add...

Ok the crankcase pressure issue makes sense. I will look into that and it explains the distributor oil leak. Thanks again to all.

yes I run one.

Sorry for late response, up early and on the road for a 5 hour drive to mom’s. Valve covers not leaking. PCV is at the front, not near the location. Its a points distributor. The shaft body has some square design to it so you can clearly see oil gathered in the crevices. If you’re right Kim...

I can try that. (Paper towel) The confusing part is that the oil is on the shaft of the distributor and on top of the distributor hold down clamp. The oil would have to be airborne from the intake to be where it is. If the oil is airborne from the intake why isn’t it on the firewall? It’s like...

A layer of silicone.

Follow up to my original post. It’s not the oil pressure sending unit. 318 engine. I replaced it, go for a drive and the area near it is dry. The shaft of the distributor is covered in oil. Anyone have an idea of what I’m dealing with?? Review; the intake gasket and seal are new. The...

Thanks to all. Just grabbed a new one from the parts store and will give it a try. Fingers crossed that’s my leak.

Hey guys/gals I have oil on the back of the engine, 318 with Edelbrock intake. I have installed a new gasket and sealant on the intake manifold. I have installed a new gasket and ring seal on the distributor. But I still have oil there. Has anyone experienced a leaky oil pressure sending...

Yes, the 275 's on my car are without any modifications. (PM me if you want more details on wheel specs, offset etc.) It's a stock 8 3/4 sure grip rear with stock spring locations. Btw, like many have suggested I have a 318, with upgrades (cam, intake ported to the #302 heads which are milled...

I believe you’re asking about the K frame for engine swap. The K frame for a /6, also works for the small block engines 318, 340, 360. Just need different engine mounts. I’m not sure about the 5.7 Hemi fitting the small block K frame, but that will be mentioned in a 3rd gen Hemi swap thread...

Oh oh, You didn't give a budget. My thoughts would be a 5.7 Hemi drivetrain to an 8 3/4 rear, (you likely have a 7 1/4 rear in there now). Stock 8 3/4 rear can handle 275/ 40R17 which is a fair bit of wheel without customization. Make sure you have large bolt pattern axle in the 8 3/4 for...

And if you pulled the heads then change those gaskets too. I would flush the rad if it was sitting for a period of time and replace with new coolant.

I'm running from this question. :eek:

If my memory serves me correct, I believe I used a hammer and a punch (or chisel). I did mine 15 years ago though.

I'd be checking on a closed choke first. Explains rough exit from garage, need for high rpm to keep running and black smoke. Then if that turns out to be fine. The dirty float needle happened to me. Gas leaking all around the carb because the float needle wouldn't seat. Engine floods.