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I think that if the distributor is not stock, your mechanical advance springs may be too light. It might be if the advance curve starts in below your idle speed, when you put it in gear, your RPMs drop, you lose advance, and the RPMs continue to drop until it stalls. I'd give some heavier...

You will likely come in at the top end of your budget for what you are planning...it won't be tough to hit the $2k mark with the cost of parts and machining. I don't want to discourage you, but check into the cost of the machine work before committing to this. The better option may be the one...

I'd advise that you get any machine work done before you start on your two weeks. My experience is that it'll take at least a couple of weeks from the time you drop it off to when you can pick it up...I would think a month would be more than enough lead time. If you're going to have the...

I had a '04 grand cherokee with a 4.7 for a couple of years. It ran well for me and I had no problems with it...the gas mileage was comparable to the 4.0 HO cherokee I had before that. My dad bought it off of me and they've had it for 4 or 5 years now. As far as I know, the only thing that went...

With the converter you have, I would consider something more along the lines of a 750 vacuum secondary. The DP may be a bit of a handful to tune with a stock-ish converter...if you're planning on also using it on the street.

I just re-read your first post, I totally missed it...I guess I need another cup of coffee. :-D

This is what I've heard when comparing a hydraulic to a solid. I'm pretty sure that this is because they do not figure in valve lash when they provide the measurements for solid cams.

I have Hughes 1.6 rockers, shafts, and hold-downs on my 360 and they spent a couple years on my 318 prior to that. No complaints, they hold their adjustments very well.

I've been using one for awhile to get my Holley dialed in. For the most part, the LM-2 is a decent piece, but I can vouch for the RPM issues. It'll just lose the signal altogether sometimes or will stick at 3000 RPM. If I were to buy another wideband, I'd go with one of the models that...

My recommendation, as it doesn't sound like you've done a lot of work on carbureted/pre-computer cars is to start with tuning. Modern cars do so much without any interaction from the driver or a mechanic, it's easy to forget about this stuff. Start with the ignition timing. Judging from...

I say run em. I can't remember if the pushrods on my LA have the oiling holes in the end and I don't really think the engine will care. I'm pretty sure that most aftermarket pushrods have oiling holes. You might end up with a little extra oil at the rocker, but I can't see how that would hurt...

Yeah, I think you're looking for something like this I'd say your cheapest bet would be to hit a u-pull-it salvage yard and pull one off yourself. The ones that I've seen can be taken off with a 3/8" ratchet and extension (the male end of the extension goes inside of the fitting that holds...

I'd agree with everything said here. If you want to hit 11s with a stock long block 318, you're going to need quite a bit of nitrous or forced induction. I'm running a 10:1 360 in my Duster with OOTB Edelbrock heads and I'm knocking on 11s. I've been within about .10 of 11s and, since I've...

I'm running a set of Hughes rockers in my 360 and have a set of Holley (M/T style) valve covers that clear. I massaged the tin baffles for the oil breather and PCV to be sure they wouldn't hit. I did have a set of the cast Edelbrock valve covers and did some clearancing on them, but it was...

LXGuy had (or has? I don't know if it's been sold) a 11-second A-body with a junkyard 360 Magnum. I don't think you could go wrong going the same route...and I wouldn't think you'd have much more into it as rebuilding that 318. The full specs for the car are in his 'For Sale' ad here...

Yep, you'll also need the gasket set for the adapter. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-5249320

This drivetrain was pulled and the car was traded off. The engine sitting on a stand right now in the shop waiting for its new home, a late-80s Dakota. It ran a 13.27@101 before the car was pulled apart. It'll be going in the Dakota with a little bit bigger cam and a much steeper gear.

This drivetrain was pulled and the car was traded off. The engine sitting on a stand right now in the shop waiting for its new home, a late-80s Dakota. It ran a 13.27@101 before the car was pulled apart. It'll be going in the Dakota with a little bit bigger cam and a much steeper gear.

What kind of headers are those? They don't look like the standard cheapies I have or TTI's. I don't think I've seen a set like that before. EDIT: Think I found 'em...they look like Doug's for an early-A.

I've had good luck with the Fel-Pro 1609 cork/rubber gaskets. Just about any auto parts store should carry them and they have always sealed well for me. The hard, black gaskets almost always seem to leak on me.

Here's the only thing I could find on the pistons... Cyl. Engine Bore V8 340 5.6 L 4.040(IN) 102.6(MM) CHRYSLER ENGINE Years Comp. Ratio 1968-71 10.2 NOTES: Flat top with four valve reliefs. Piston may be used in either left or right cylinder bank. APPROXIMATE HEAD VOLUME=10cc Comp...

If you're having problems getting the ports to seal, you could try a set of gaskets with the printoseal, like Fel-Pro Q1213S3. They have a rubber coating across the gasket, a bead around all the ports, and are spec'd at .065 thick. They're a few bucks more than the standard embossed blue Fel-Pros.

I'd agree, it sounds like it may be fuel starvation since it cuts out sooner in higher gears. You're probably emptying the carburetor fuel bowls at high rpm and need a new fuel filter, bigger fuel pump, or bigger fuel lines. Tell us about your combo...at least the engine and fuel system.

I've used the ARP main bolts on a couple of engines now and think the stock bolts are fine. I just decided to go overkill on one build and the bolts came with the other. If you do decide to replace the bolts with ARPs, my experience has been that the bolt that goes under the oil pump on the...

This cam in a stock 318 won't work well. The lift is more than likely too much on stock heads, which I think is usually around .500" at the max before you start running into problems with valve guide clearance. You'd definitely need a torque converter, I'm guessing at least 3.5 to 4k to get the...

Are you running a PCV valve? If not, try it out. If you are, change the valve. I'm thinking that you're having pressure building up in the crankcase, pushing oil out of the crank and pan seals.

Does it need to be bored out to .060? I'd only bore it as much as needed to clean it up and I've heard that you can run into thin-wall castings. If you're having it opened up that far, I'd definitely get it sonic checked first.

Is this dyno reputable? The numbers may be way off and your combo may be fine. Have you run the car down the 1/4? A timeslip will make it easier to see if dyno agrees with the dragstrip. I don't see any mention of exhaust, I hope you're using headers. Manifolds would probably completely choke a...

Yep, all 318s (LA, at least) should be internally balanced.

I just finished going through the same thing. After a belt has been thrown once, you might as well pitch it or you can try to get the parts store to take it as a warranty return. If you're in a pinch, you can put it back on to get home. You could also keep a spare of each in the car, which is...