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I'll be the first. I've had TrailBeast's system for maybe almost a year. I absolutely love it. The simplicity makes it great. It's about the best I've seen for the money for a street car, hipo or stock. And I'm not exactly new to MOPAR's by no means. Russ.

When I first built my 340 with a mini starter it would sometimes grind when first starting the engine. This went on for a few months. Now that this post popped up, I don't remember hearing it grind for about a month now. Whatever caused the slight grinding, it's gone now. My setup is a '66...

This is one of the first things I was taught when I worked in a machine shop when I was a kid. The squirt hole is called a pee hole. The following is the formula to remember. "Pee-hole to the cam, numbers/locks to the outside." Now back in the 60's when I was taught this, we didn't see many or...

You're in San Bernardino aren't you? PM me and I'll shoot you my phone number and see if I can give you a hand. I've been playing with these things for 50 years. Russ.

Just like Doc Hudson was trying to tell Stickers!! Russ.

You'll probably end up with a 73 or 74 jet. If the cam you're using is hydraulic, use 273 push rods and adjustable rockers right at zero lash. Alway remember this. On the small tracks, the tech officials usually don't even know how to spell MOPAR. Have fun. Russ.

I would start with a pair of 75 jets. Watch your plugs and fine tune from there. You'll probably end up with about a 72 or 73. Have fun, turn left. Forgot to ad, what's the altitude and how big is the track. It matters. Russ.

It was a great idea. The only engines that I know of (which means less than nothing LOL), that reversing the pistons and swapping cylinder banks to gain different wrist pin offsets was the 10.5-1 273 Commando engines and the D Dart 273. I've built myself a couple of them. Depending on how you...

273 standard bore is 3 5/8" (3.625). I see many places where people round it off to 3.630. Why, I don't know!? Russ.

You didn't state which rings you were using, but the old rule of thumb was for every inch of bore, the ring gap would be .004". A four inch bore would be .016" ring gap. A .024" ring gap would work for a six inch bore engine "back in the day". Just throwing this out there, food for thought...

An internally balanced crank should be balanced first with nothing on it but the bob-weights. THEN you either add the balancer and flywheel to each end and re-balance and only taking weight from those parts to get your balance back, or balance the pieces separately. Russ.

I guess I should have mentioned what Stroker said. Run them loose. I ran .007 with new slugs on all my 273's way back when with the TRW L2222N pistons. I always went .060 over, never had a heating problem. I also went .011-.011 on the crank. Lots of clearance, .003 rods and mains, the little 273...

L2222N is the TRW part number for the 273 -10.5 replacement piston. The pin is the stock MOPAR size. The only difference from stock as far as design goes, the factory piston had off-set pins, the TRW's had 0 off-set, and were forged. It's a good piston, you can run the hell out of them. Make...

I "grew up" in a machine shop, and one of my jobs was all the engine, drive line balancing. So, of course I'm a firm believer in balancing. Even the 401 I built for my Jeep is balanced, and it's built to redline at 4300 RPM's (it dyno'd at 4288 ), all bottom end power. But what nobody has...

No, the bolts seeping oil have no relationship to oil pressure, as long as you have sufficiant oil in the system. Russ.

Brian, Give Dougan's a call. They are in Riverside, roughly on Limonite by Van Buren. They are a top rate high performance machine shop. Call Ray or Jim, 1-951-681-1961. Tell them Russ from Stick Shift recommended them. I grew up in a machine shop, and Dougan's is the only shop I'll trust...

The 340 heads I've used are all pre 1972 or '73 I'd say. It's been awhile since I put one of those little motors together for hot rodding. The 273's will scream if built with good heads, big cam, pistons and good carburetion. My first one in my little '63 Valiant ran 12.60 at Riverside with a...

On a couple of my 273's I used the 340 2.02 X heads, but you have to notch the block for the intakes. Well, I think you have to notch the block. I never tried the 2.02 heads without notching the block, I'll put it that way. In the little 273 that's in my '66 Valiant right now, it's a stock two...

Mike, Looks good. Damn good. If you haven't already done it, run a tap through the head bolt holes before you assemble the motor. Actually, wouldn't hurt to run all the holes. Then make sure you blow them out real good.

Too old?? Hell, I heard this in the early '70's when I lived in Hemet, CA. That's after my stint with Uncle Sam. Talk about a guy with a sore and wore out back, that's me!! I hurt in places I didn't even know I had. But I still play. LOL. Never to old for horsepower. Russ.

GOT IT!!!, Mike. Russ.

Ok, I can see why you're confused. The pistons are bank specific. In other words, the right hand bank pistons are DIFFERENT than the left bank pistons. That's why the pistons Toolman just got have a right bank and left bank set of four each. The pistons for 2, 4, 6 and 8, if you're looking right...

65 Val, "Of course, with a new build instead of modifying an existing 10.5 "S" motor, you could just mount the pistons on the rods to keep the rod numbers correct, left bank and right banks reversed, notch to the rear." "towards fender and turn the slug and rod 180" Ok, you are...

65 Val, That's what I mean by being a head scratcher. You can't just reverse the piston on the rod because the slug will hit the head. Picture this. #1 piston, you're at the front of the block looking at it. Say the offset of the pin is towards the outside of the block (offset closer to...

Edit: Of course, with a new build instead of modifying an existing 10.5 "S" motor, you could just mount the pistons on the rods to keep the rod numbers correct, left bank and right banks reversed, notch to the rear. I know it's a head scratcher, but it does work. I'm trying to activate some old...

65 Val said....."Mike...just swapping the pistons/rods bank for bank won't give you the offset advantage you're looking for. You have to flip the pistons 180* on the rods (and in the bore) to achieve this. You can do this with flat-top pistons. You can't do it with the pop-ups as the pistons...

A little trivia from about 40 years ago. With the factory formula S 273 10.5 pistons, they had offset pins. The trick was to swap banks, and turn the piston and rod assemblies backwards. In other words, take 1, 3, 5 and 7 and put them in the 2, 4, 6 and 8 holes, but notch to the rear, not the...