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Love this website, info is priceless!!

Asked a reputable mechanic that exact question once, he told me block front side even bank; 2,4,6,8 that leaves the open water port in back on that side which is the very back cylinder of the block, he said if you have your open water port in the odd side that the water would not circulate to...

I purchased a set of the 1.5s' installed them and they were rubbing on the retainers/springs I think mine were designed for use with beehive springs. I didn't want to grind on them so I'm keeping them for another build. I saw the problem before I fired the engine so no harm done.

Just for kicks try disconnecting vacumn advance and plugging both ends, only takes a second and doesn't cost anything. Had a couple of my cars ( both Mopars ) that instantly ran perfect when they were running like crap.

Got the new fuel pump in and she lit right up. Thanks to all for your input, as a dad you know that phone call is going to be coming that the car quit running and your the one who needs to remedy the situation and I can't tell you guys how nice it is to have a group of guys like you find here at...

Arrived at truck shot a little ether into intake and she fired up for a second. So I'm going back today with new fuel pump. Was actually hoping for the crank sensor to be the problem (way easier and cheaper). Did take out the old fuel pump when I was there. Will update when it runs again.

Thanks so much to everyone, on my way now to check it out.

Think I'll get headed her way. Where is the test port in the fuel rails located I will want to check that out, also location of factory fuel filter(s).

Can I ask where is the test port on the fuel rail that should be something I want to look at when I get there, maybe also factory fuel filter location(s).

I think I'll get heading her way to check things out first hand. Thanks for all the input, was hoping for something easy but no such luck.

Not real mechanically inclined that's why I was thinking of staying on the phone with her while she did it

Luckily so far she doesn't grind away on the starter too much, the truck has always started quickly so she knows better. Resetting the computer didn't work.

Ok we will give that a try, she can definitely do that. I can try to get her to spray a shot of ether into the airbox, I'll just stay on the phone with her while she does it so I'm sure of exactly what she is doing on her end.

So three times to run position and off may get some codes? I'll call her and see what we get.

Badsport, do you think the fuel pump might be locked up and just need a little jarring to free it up?

I tried to get into that site posted above but couldn't get into It

I told her that would be my next check would be to put some fuel directly into the intake to see if it would fire for just a second but I think that could be beyond her knowlege under the hood, but that would definitely tell us if it is fuel or spark. I may have to make a road trip if it doesn't...

I am only on a cell phone, no computer

05 ram 5.7 cranks over ok. Had her check fuel pump fuse and relay in fuse box under hood both checked out ok, don't know where to have her check next. Truck has 115,000 miles on it. I'm guessing fuel pump but I'm 150 miles away. I just talked to her again and were trying to reset computer by...

Ok I will try up and down on the pushrod, I tried to "rock" the rocker itself to determine when I was getting to zero lash but that just wasn't working for me, had no sence of feel But I didn't try grabbing the pushrod for up and down, only if it rotated really easy where it didn't seem...

Sounds like I'm on the right track then I just need to give each lifter a couple minutes to settle before I start the process.

Wanting to adjust valves on 340 with 273 rockers on hydraulic lifters. Have read on other threads to get the cam on the lowest point for selected rocker ( that part is easy enough for me ) then rotate pushrod with fingers while tightening adjuster until pushrod becomes a little stiff to...

That sounds good too.

I see your point there, no matter if the heads were milled or not the valve stem height in relation to the pedistal would not change. I think a guy actually needs a little on both sides. My adjustable rockers can give me a shorter length ( than stock) on the pushrod side simply by backing them...

I've actually also wondered if the machine shop knew they were going to mill the heads if they should have accounted for the difference with the installed height of the valve stems themselves. If they were to be surfaced a bit too it seems like things would be way more in line but to mill the...

I guess I'm looking at it the wrong way. Already as much as I've backed the adjuster out of the rocker I'm hitting the rocker with the cup of the pushrod and the angle that the rocker sits at now is rocked way over on the pushrod side, if I get a shorter pushrod my rocker arm will end up rocked...

The heads were just milled a bit and when I tried to adjust the valves I could not get the adjusters short enough, they got where the cup on the pushrod was hitting the rocker so it seemed to me the easiest just to shim it up a bit rather than to chase down shorter pushrods and it looked like...

Anyone have experience running these shims? Ordered some and have them on the way but wonder if there is any nightmare stories associated with them. Going into 340, stock cam, stock compression, x heads, 273 rockers with the cup and ball pushrods. Will probably never see 4000 rpm just a...

I saw in an old thread a recommendation to try clr, anybody try that stuff?

Should I do the scotch brite first or the Parts washing then the scotch brite?