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which Mopar Performance engine paint would be correct for a ‘73 340? Is the P4120752AB Turquoise the right one?

I have a '73 340 I need to put together and I'd like to run a hydraulic roller if there's one available, anybody make one for it? Thanks

I've honed a few hundred blocks with ball hones and here's what I did....use a reversible drill (are any these days not reversible??) and using standard rotation run it wide open and just scuff up the cylinder for a few seconds then reverse it and get the crosshatch you want. Use plenty of oil...

I'm thinking about taking some weight out, any instructions anywhere that will help as far as how much and where to cut? Thanks

Thanks for the info guys but I'd really like to have a new OEM if possible, I may have to go a different route but I gotta try first.

I need a new balancer for my externally balanced 340 and a while back I ran across a site that had a new factory balancer and I thought I bookmarked it but evidently I didn't. It was one of the places that sell restoration parts but I can't for the life of me remember who, any ideas who may have...

I appreciate all the help guys, I was trying to keep it close to stock appearing but I may have to go with that balancer. Thanks

:lol:

I shoulda thought of that....Thanks!

I have a '73 340 that I'm building and I'm trying to get a new stock type balancer so I ordered one from Rock Auto and it's a Power Bond PB 1004 N (Advance Auto shows the same number as a replacement). My original balancer is thicker by about 3/8" and I'm wondering if this will have any effect...

Thanks for the info, done a number of engines but this is the first 340.

Gotcha. That is way too much work for this project, thanks!

Dafuq does this mean? I got lost after mmmmm....

Is this just info or does it have something to do with the wrist pin oil hole?

Doing a stock rebuild on my 340 and the rods have pin bushings but no oil holes, I kinda like the idea of the pins getting at least a little oil so I'm thinking before I have everything balanced I'll add the hole(s). Two different ways I'm thinking of, one hole in the top of the rod or two holes...

These have a wrist pin bushing but no oiling hole, should I add a hole or two? I'll have everything balanced before assy so that's not a concern.

No problem on the hijack, good info so I don't have an issue with it. I pretty much got the info I was looking for but some of the guys missed my humor and got a little sidetracked. I wound up having to only go .040 but had to sleeve 2 cylinders. I was hoping .060 would clean up one of them...

But...but...but...if I buy a sonic tester I must know this info, what cylinder wall thickness is acceptable for a stock build? Mild street performance? Full race motor (with a 3/4 cam, or is that a 3/4 race motor?)?

All you "sonic check it" guys don't have an answer for this? I'm curious myself, why sonic check it if you don't know what's acceptable?

Dude, read the rest of the post and take note of the smiley face. Again, the first part was a joke. Geez. Looking for someone to tell me what to do is one thing, asking for information is another. Two completely different things. And I wouldn't have bothered asking the question if I didn't...

I didn't ask what I should do I was simply looking for info and opinions on going 60 on a 340 block, I can make up my own mind from there. "Stock build" indicates it is not a high horsepower 340. Thanks for your input.

Thanks for the responses guys but I guess I need to add that I was joking about the cubic inch thing, hence the smiley face. Nobody in these parts has a sonic tester and it's a stock build so I'll let'er rip. Thanks again!

No, going for max horsepower with the cubic inch increase.... :D Seriously, the engine sat for 30 years with water in it and will need 2 sleeves unless the pits in one of them will clean up at 60.

Anybody have problems going .060 on a '73 340 block?