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It’s got a cracked valve seat on #3 so, I’m still crossing my fingers that the newly sealed intake keeps the oil clean this week. Still want to have a little more fun with this junkyard build before it’s time to break it down.

I noticed that when I pulled it off too. Tough building cars when you’ve got little kids. I don’t remember the day of the install but, I’m often getting pulled away for diapers, bottles, etc. I used rubber units the last time so, hopefully that helps.

I’m taking it to/from work and around town for errands this week. Checking the oil after every trip. Maybe 50 miles so far and no signs quite yet

Well, I sent her a little too hard during my last track visit. I think I may have found the coolant leak source but, I’m not 100% sure. You all see anything I may have missed?

Convertibles running 8.49 or faster need an 8 point cage. I just have a 4 point roll bar that I welded up.

Yup. His first pass was an 8.4 then an 8.6. Not sure if he had traction issues on that second one or not. I think the Dart can hit 8.5 with some springs, from wheels that fit, and a converter. Any faster than that and I’ll be booted from the track.

This Dodge 318 was in the junkyard earlier this year. After being plucked from the yard and overhauled on a 5 year old’s budget, it’s out here at the drag strip collecting wins and leaving people scratching their heads.

I didn’t use the 750 DP due to stripping out the housing threads for the bowl and metering plate. It was puking fuel all over the intake. I do plan to chop off the rusted out exhaust, use a 1” car spacer, and lighten up the car a bit. Running 13s would be a total win in my book. Thanks for...

Im not 100% but, I feel like it was near 4500

No I’m going to trailer it out and stick to the 8 all the way there. It would add an extra 3hrs for me to meet up with the convoy.

I’m running 4.10s with 27” tall tires

Haha yeah the deals aren’t plentiful anymore. I picked this up from a junkyard in 2021. Took me 5 months to get a title.

Thanks! I’ve made some tweaks here and there since the 1/8 pass. I’m gona cross my fingers for a 13.99 or better at Duct Tape.

It’s been a busy summer. I built this little 318 for the 3k drag challenge and was pretty impressed by it. It had sat in a junkyard for a decade before I picked it up. I just had to see what it ran on the Dyno. With these power levels and a 9.47sec pass in the 1/8 (with no tune and dragging...

I did take apart the pump after soaking it in the diesel and it looked just fine. No sign of any objects inside the pump. The small piece of silicone were too big to fit through the pick up screen. I was able to work out the spark issue and I drove it about 5 miles today. Everything is working...

I was going to replace the pump originally but I soaked it in diesel first to clean any debris and everything looked great so I reinstalled it. There were a few pieces of silicone on the pick up screen so I was thinking that was the cause. I cleaned the pan and changed the oil. It doesn't take...

I had Royal purple in it which comes with a lot of Zinc I believe. No additive though.

Yeah the pump turns just fine, I primed it for about 5 mins and it was holding 50 psi the whole time. I dropped the pan, took the pump off and cleaned/inspected it. I pulled the main caps one by one and they all look great. No signs of excessive heat damage. I also checked the # 1&2 rod bearing...

I love my Mopar but only being able to put 50 miles on it in 4 years really sucks :/. I can't wait for this work to pay off. Here's the other part to the oil pump shaft.

Pulling the engine and doing a rebuild just isn't in the cards. I no longer have a shop or the time for that. Now if I pull the pan and find some damaged bearing well, not to sound like an a** but, the car would most likely sit in storage for a year or more.

Alright so after giving it some thought, I'm going to pull the pan, replace the pump, and check the bearings. If I like what I'm seeing I'll just leave it at that and continue the break in period. An external oil pump would be so great right now. Maybe I'll tackle a big block next time. I really...

If I'm able to prime the pump without any issues then the pump would be fine right? And which way does that shaft turn?

This is a billet cam and I was told to use the bronze gear. I ordered a new piece from summit racing (221 bucks). I'll try to use the magnet first but if it doesn't work then I'll just go with the jb weld trick to pull it out. I'm really suprised it snapped off like that but, I'm soooooo happy...

I'm taking a break from it today. Im going to try and put some jb weld on the end of a rod and then adhere it to the broken piece

Hmm... Found it. Is there another issue that caused this or is this most likely dumb luck? Shaft is brand new.

Yeah unfortunately I built it so it's all on me. I drained the oil and popped off the valve covers. Oil had some shavings but I expected that from a brand new build. The valvetrain looks great. I'm going to pull the dizzy off now and try to prime it.

Ok I have the bronze gear. I'm going to pop off the valve covers and the oil pan as well to see if any of the above suggestions could be the problem. It is a HV pump in a standard size pan. If I don't find anything there then I'll try to prime the pump and see if I can get anything. Thanks for...

I was told 10psi per 1000 rpm was acceptable. It's got a mechanical gauge. It's a hydraulic roller( roller cam, lifters, rockers)

So I was cruising on the hwy at about 60 mi/h when I noticed the engine pitch start to change. I immediately looked at my gauges and noticed that my oil pressure dropped from 30 psi to 0. My temp was still the same. I pulled over, popped the hood and checked the oil. Still full and clean as far...

It's still got a few issues but it's running. Pretty sure my rear main seal is screwed up somehow because it's gushing oil when it gets to temp. That and the trans pan gasket won't stop leaking. I've swapped it out twice yet I can't stop it. I'll replace the rear main seal and use a rubber...