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Edit: My cam specs were improperly listed, actual is 270/280 .420 I/.443 E 204/214 lift @.050. This has been my cam of all seasons choice for everything from 305,350 and 383 Chebbies and the same grind spec for my 360 Duster. Tons of torque, good power, fair economy and 100,000 mile plus...

Even back in 68 that car may have had provisions for electric choke, my 73 Duster does. If it doesn't you need to dedicate a wire for it that is only hot when the ignition is in run position. it's a pain in the *** but you gotta do it. Trust me it is more work worrying about it than just...

I was wondering about that on the ballast, I have three of them, all test around 1.4-1.6 ohms cold. One of them is actually marked "1.2" on one of the terminals. Could swear my 74' Chiltons manual listed it as 1.5 ohms. Are there different values for different years, I would think the .5 ohm...

Good advice. FYI, I drove the car to work this morning with lights on, never took it out of drive. Running super smooth, no hiccups. I also noticed very little drop in idle speed when put into gear(running ported vacuum now of course) and the big surprise was how much cleaner it smells at...

You are too modest, if you had not brought up the T-Slot I would still be scratching my head:)

??

OK, long day yesterday with this thing, first off the fuel pump started leaking so had to replace that before doing anything else. Drove it around in hopes that may have contributed but of course no. So I removed the carb and here is what the T-Slot looked like: After playing with the...

I will try bypassing ballast for test only and see what happens. I may have to hook up the tachometer I bought for it in 1987 to see what it actually idles at in gear:) Hate that tacked on look but 73's don't have rally gauge clusters. I am going to check ballast resistance when hot too...

If not stated voltages(other than battery in picture) were taken with car running, accessories on with car in gear. I don't know what the voltage at + terminal on coil should read while running but shows around 6 in neutral with no accessories on. Do you know what the spec is for that voltage...

Spent some time troubleshooting this weekend: Voltage Drop at firewall with accessories on and running ground checked out: Same at ground on radiator support: Voltage drop at run terminal: Voltage at coil: Plenty of juice at idle in neutral: Not shown but dropped below 12 volts in...

Thank you everybody for the replies, I will take everyone's suggestions and put them to work troubleshooting this beast. Will report back with results.

I don't have timing tape on the balancer but I did check timing with light after hooking up vacuum. Can is working. Don't know how much advance but it moves it 15-20. Yes everything else is correct.

vacuum was plugged while setting initial if that's what you meant.

Yes

2400 stall

At my wits end with this car. It stalls sometimes just by turning on the headlights. It will stall when thrown in reverse and will stall when the fan setting is on high. I have done the following: Checked engine vacuum at idle-19" Swapped Carbs with a known good one of same type-Holley...

My 73 Duster has finally succumbed to the dreaded corroded spade terminals poking through the firewall. I bypassed the alternator terminal about three years ago to fix a charging problem, now the car will not run in gear with the headlights on. Reached under the dash and touched the main...

You are right, the chevy guys got it right with the wiring:) In the process of running a new 10 gauge wire from my alt through the bulkhead connector, my spade terminal was melting the connector and the car would not idle with any load put on the system anymore(not enough juice to keep the fire...

You sure that is not the original alternator wire(batt)? The wire attached to your alternator now looks pretty hefty to me for an original.