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I had previously converted from points to electronic (Mopar clone) and I did see I nice improvement especially at idle and low speeds. I don't have any performance numbers for the new HEI setup....yet.

Sounds like a good solution.

Now that I have the final location I can weld up the slots in the transmission mount. The motor mount perches will be more difficult. Remember the perches have a factory verticle slot so you can drop the engine in with the mounts attached. After thinking about it, I should have made 1/2"...

Hello all, I decided to try to see if the all-in-one GM style HEI would fit on my 360 in a 67 Dart. The word on the street was it didn't fit or it is extremely tight. In my case it is extremely tight. In order to get some more room I moved the engine forward. I slotted the engine mount...

Voltage to the ECU: Key on/Engine off: 10.9V Cranking: 7.9V Engine Running: 11.5V The ECU is currently tied to the blue wire running to the voltage regulator.

In the run position I am seeing 12V on one side and 6V on the other side of the ballast. The ECU is currently connected to the blue feed wire for the voltage regulator. Without the ECU connected I was seeing 12V in the run position and 8V while cranking. I will have to stick a pin in the wire...

Who did the wiring or was it a kit? The Painless secondary fuse block does not run through the dash amp guage. If a DUI HEI would fit under the wiper motor I would put that on and eliminate the ECU and Ballast resistor. I will eventually put on a 1 wire alternator and eliminate the external...

I already added a Painless secondary fuse block with it's own feed to the battery to run additional electronics. When I tried to connect the ECU to it I found that during cranking the switched source in the original fuse block used to enegized the relay for the secondary fuse block loses power...

I tried connecting the power for the ECU directly to the battery and the car started right up. With the ECU connected this way the tach responded normally without the jumping around as I slowly rev'ed it up pass 2,ooo RPM. The switched power source I could find close was the blue wire running...

I checked the voltage to the ECU and found 11.50 V in the run position and 1.3 V while cranking. I also tested the distributor and found 275 ohms across the two wires and only got .2 -.3 VAC while cranking. Thoughts?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-850003/ This is a copy of the MP electronic ignition conversion. Comes with a new distributor, control module, and wiring harness. I picked up power for the control module from the run side of the ballast resistor. I checked the air gap in the...

I started checking voltages and found the coil was getting 10.50 - 11.0 volts during crank and 6.5 volts while running. Maybe I should check to see if the ignition box is getting any voltage while cranking. The car cranks fine but still will not start until the key is returned to the run...

Hello all, Some background information: the car is a 67 Dart with a 360 LA conversion from /6. The car has a Summit Racing electronic ignition conversion kit. The problem I having is this: the car cranks but has no fire until you release the key to the run position and then sometimes it will...

Before I bought the 67 Dart, the oldest car I had worked on was a 70 Challenger RT and the parking lights stayed on when you turned on the headlights. The front turn signals work fine with the headlights on. How would I go about tapping into the headlight switch to keep the front lights on...

Thanks for the response!

Hello all, I am in the process of getting my 67 Dart ready for inspection. I went through and replaced all the turn signal and brake light bulbs and proceded to test everything. Everything worked as expected except for the following: When I pull the headlight switch out to light the...

If you are looking to convert to electronic ignition here is the kit I installed a few weeks ago from Summit Racing: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-850003/ It works very well and was easy to install.