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I just install them so that "down" on the front makes both sides get longer or both sides get shorter, which makes the alignment guy's job easier; especially when centering the steering wheel.

In the Mopar system, the correct way to dial in the steering effort is to take the steering gear apart and increase the reaction spring pressure with more of them, or thicker ones. I bought my spring-kit right from the Mopar Dealer over twenty years ago. It took me three tries to get it...

When you installed the winter tires, were they mounted on the same wheels, or on identical wheels as, the car was formerly aligned on/with? Imagine a line in front or rear view, running thru the center of the LBJ, and the Inboard pivot of the LCA, on either side of the car. When that line is...

without pictures I have to agree with previous post.

Judging by the preload, those bars are too soft for your application. Ima thinking those bars cannot be reclocked and still be installed. Or the ride heights are all over the place, including the rears. If you have a soft rear spring, you will have to crank up a front bar to get the car...

My Barracuda did that once. It had a Federal pump on it. I switched to a Saginaw and it was gone and in 20 odd years has not come back. I took the Federal pump apart to see if I could learn something, but it looked perfect inside. My thought was the the pressure relief was faulty, but IDK...

I have the Eddies on my 360, with a factory big-sector steering box. I ditched the factory Federal pump for a Saginaw. In my collection of many Saginaws, I found one that had the return hose clocked in a direction it needed to go. IIRC, it was off a slanty car, cuz I had to take the brackets...

whoa! >Make sure the tire pressures are up! >Check your suspension/steering systems first. It sorta sounds to me like one or more joints/ends have seized up. and make sure the Center-link is not rubbing on something. This test sorta needs to be done at your normal ride height on turning plates...

I've had no luck with the Federal Pumps. The two I tried were just too slow. Slapped on a Saginaw, and shazzam!

Yes and as an alignment tech for 6 years, I saw a few off-shore BJs that were so tight, that it was impossible to achieve a consistent alignment, as the front end settled into various ride-heights at various times. This was aggravated by somebody else having tightened the LCA inner pivots at...

I had a 74 Duster that did that to me. It turned out that the P-side inner fender apron was no longer properly attached to the firewall....... so the front stub frame had a mind of it's own . In my case, the car made a hard right and I was off-roading. This was in traffic at about 45mph, so I...

I run 235/60-14s on mine at 25.1 tall, versus 26.4 on yours. and 1.03 bars, and a big sway bar, and HD shocks, and I moved the battery to the back. and a skid-plate. to protect my oilpan. Now I can jump the bugger and do stupid stuff with impunity, like grass-Rally Cross. What a riot that is...

Calgary airport is at like 4000 ft elevation? If your numbers are referenced for sealevel, yur gonna be shy of the 400/400. and you may need more than 10.25 Scr. Your stall is gonna depend a great deal on your final Cylinder pressure. AND if a 230*/110 cam, 3.23s are NOT gonna cut it. With a...

Yeah it's all good now, the tubs accept 325/50-15s on 10s.

Ok but what keeps the axles from sliding right out of the tubes.

That's factory tolerance. But, here's a hint. >If you have an 8.75 rear end, then the axle end-play adjuster is supposed to be, on the passenger side. Have a look. Maybe yours is on the driver's side. The adjuster can be as much 3/8ths off-set, which is doubled when moved from side to side.I...

I don't do autocross. The only track we have is Not dedicated and is over an hour away. My car has ONLY a front sway rear bar, 1.03 bars and plain old 3-way adjustable shocks. I have had 245s on the front and still do run 295s on the rear. Rear springs are Stock FormulaS with a full main-leaf...

If you move the rear back, sooner or later the shocks will hit the factory tank, and/or, be impossible to pull off the lower studs.

I made some of those for my car.

After divoting, stud and bearing loc held it good on one of my projects years ago.

Ok, I'll rock the boat, I really want to agree with the BJ guys but Ima thinking it's too loud. More like it's coming from the aprons, which points to the shocks or UCA bushings. But, I'm just guessing. But I should mention that I once had that sound appear on my 75 Dart DD, and a week or two...

many years ago, when I was still an alignment tech, I discovered that the Moog bolts were TOO LONG, and/or the flats too short on the threaded end. Thus when I tightened them down, they would not hold the adjustment. My solution at that time was to go to a farm-supply house, and get hardened...

I used a tin snips. It only took a minute or two ........ Cutting the hole in my hood for fresh air took a lot longer.

Maybe but more likely the Power piston has air in it or just has sealing issues.

It doesn't matter when you loose the LCAs. It only matters that you not tighten them until the car is at ride height. If you loose the UCAs, you will likely lose your alignment, so I would not do that. Some aftermarket BJs are extremely tight, and will sorta "stick" which will cause wandering

You know the combo demands more traction, especially in the sideways direction. And if you don't do it first, there's a good chance you'll slide that Dart right into the only hydro-pole within 300 yds, on the maiden voyage. And besides, it will be the biggest expense. To that end, if I may be...

My Flat springs corner pretty good. I just added a Second main leaf. Yeah the back is lousy at 60 footing, but man it drifts so sweetly. But slanty springs are not suitable for a V8, so if you have them , they gotta go anyway.

Chrysler used to have a tool for that.

Have you checked your tire type and pressures. ----------------------------------------------------- I've been running T-bar cars almost continuously since 1970, and when radial tires came to town, that was the best thing ever. and second best was running the fronts at 28/29 psi, in town...

Op said, "I will NOT NOT be running a 15" rim." If this means I WILL BE running a 14; then I see no point cuz what's the biggest 14" street tire you can actually go to the tire-store and put your hands on? And, does your combo need more that that?