Search results for query: *

I bought one from Firm Feel. Column Adapter (Power-to-Manual) Zero complaints about it.

I have an Addco bar on my '66 Dart. Makes a big difference but I do not like the mounts at all. I often want to redo the mounting so they have more ground clearance and rigidity, but other things have taken precedence.

I was able to fit 225mm tires on my '66 Dart on the front. It took some subtle fender rolling to clear everything. As others have noted, 14" is a hard size to shop for these days, particularly for serious performance tires. Even 15" opens up a lot more options. Hoosier's 46115 is a DOT legal...

Professor Fate summed it up pretty well. The only thing I'd add is that if you're putting in an aftermarket sway bar kit, they are typically designed around the assumption your car didn't have a sway bar to begin with, and include their own mounting hardware. So you'd only need to track down the...

You can lower the front end quite a ways for free with a wrench - ride height is just another alignment setting on an A-body.

F-body brake lines work well for this, once you remove the metal bracket from them.

Others have covered the behavior with thicker bars - I'll get the worn out bars. Torsion bar sag is different from the way coil springs behave, as a sagging torsion bar simply has the front hex rotate. Nothing else changes - the spring rate and weight transfer are the same, and you just have to...

The car burntorange70 posted appears to be a full tube chassis setup, or at the very least tube chassis from the firewall forward with what may be a stamped K-member. The A-body inner fenders are structural, pretty much the equivalent of frame rails, so it pays to do this right.

If it's an all out race car, I'd probably replace the bushings in the LCA with needle bearings and weld a bit of bar stock in behind the torsion bar mount, support the bar stock with square tubing welded to the K-member, then use a Grade 8 bolt and castle nut as a replacement for the pivot.

I'm running a similar front tire size (225/50R16) and had to roll the inner lips of the fenders a bit to get them to clear the tires.

It's possible to put the factory bar on earlier cars. One tip off it's factory is that the factory one mounts to the rear subframe, not the axle. It's somewhere around 5/8" diameter IIRC, not sure of the front bar size.

Another possible donor - Toyota Supras (and their related luxury cars, the Lexus SC300, SC400, Toyota Cressida) from 1987 and later are almost the exact same track width as an A-body. Josh Skinner on slantsix.org had some pictures of a third gen ('87-'92) Supra IRS that he was putting in an...

I used a wire rope clip (sometimes called a cable clamp) on mine. Got them out without scratches. Another thing I did was using a bottle jack to push on the clip. Pops it right out.

He must have been planning for the fatigue cracking to serve the same purpose and made the welds extra porous to make sure that happened.

If you think about it, the adjustable pinion snubber takes the idea of slapper bars and just moves it to a different location. A carefully layed out set of slapper bars could accomplish many of the same goals - a randomly bolted on set intended for a Chevy won't. Chevies have symmetric rear leaf...

I agree - the stock shock mounting point was not designed to support the weight of the car, and I wouldn't put coil overs on there without reinforcing the mounting point at the very least.

I'd be very interested in the early A once I get my Dart back on the road. I've got a solid Addco on it right now and I hate the bracket design it uses.

Not too hard to do with a pickle fork and a hammer. Just be sure to get the alignment set when you're done.

What years will it fit, and how do the K-member brackets look?

If you go with discs on a '72 or earlier car, you will need everything from ball joint to ball joint and the master cylinder, but can keep both control arms. The '73 and later option requires '73-'76 upper control arms (not necessarily from a disc brake equipped car) as well, and has a large...

They did at one point, but when I asked last year they were discontinued. They could, however, revalve their drag shocks into road race shocks and get you something that would work well, just be more expensive. For an off the shelf max performance shock, the QA1s seem like a good possibility.

They're all pretty much the same basic design and similar weights, so what works on one A-body will work on another. Most of them have quite a bit of rear overhang. I don't have any numbers for the Duster, but it's not significantly different from other A-bodies. I've seen Darts and Dusters...

Slapper bars on an A-body are workable, although as Dave points out, less vital than on something like a Nova. The design responsible for the "Never put traction bars on a Mopar" rule was bars that mounted with bushings or Heim joints at each end. On a Chevy, with a very flexy spring, you could...

It depends on how you drive it and your current spring rates. If the car rolls a great deal, three inches of rebound will make it lift the inside front wheel while cornering. It could also conceivably launch itself off a speed bump at high speeds. If it's a fairly stiff suspension that is not...

For one thing, the early Falcons and Mustangs used a truly attrocious front suspension design. You've seen some of the templates going around for how you can fix your camber curve on those with a hand drill? They're not very good suspensions and in that case even a stock Mustang II suspension...

Probably your best bet would be to narrow the frame itself and the center link, leaving the control arms alone.

Not my first choice either - I was thinking one or the other... :)

The number of leaves isn't the whole picture; the spring rate is also determined by the leaf thickness and some details about the shape of the springs. Not to mention that Mopars use highly asymmetrical springs with different rates left to right, and different ratios of stiffness front to rear...

I agree - you can get a lot done with the stock stuff and good quality rebuilds. Stock parts won't hold you back for drag racing or street cruising. I'd only go for the aftermarket parts if I were trying to take on BMWs in an autocross, swapping in a big block and wanted more clearance, or had...