Search results for query: *

I sprayed my LCA and torsion bars with a concoction of rustoleum, acetone and synthetic enamel hardner. Man this stuff is cheap and it cross links to form a semi shiny black finish that is chemical resistant and cures in only 12 hours compared to 3 days straight out of the can. I didn't want...

Yeah, I do my own alignments too, got tired of paying someone for mis-alignments and scratches. I have an old Tri-Anguliner gauge for checking caster/camber and just use a tape measurer to measure the toe setting. Pretty easy once you get the knack. Can't emphasize enough it's best to replace...

It took me about ten minutes to split it down the middle with an air chisel and then lever it out.

I had dreaded doing this job for several years, was pretty darn easy with power tools and a shop press. disassembly was a breeze, don't even need a torsion bar tool, prying on the LCA simply pushed it and the T-Bar back far enough to clear the pivot shaft and then pull the arm off the hex on...

Got it in, ready for new ball joint.

Pressing it in the arm.

Seated in nicely ready to press into LCA.

Pressing stub shaft (pivot shaft) into new bushing first.

Levering out outer shell after air chisel work.

After hacksawing and chiseling.

Stub shaft with inner shell still attached

Gonna swap these bars in:

Yep, hung it on the jack stand handle so I don't lose it. LCA came out really easy with the t- bar able to float backwards a few inches.

Here is one more

My original LCA bushings finally completely and totally gave out. Posting a few pics of the fun.

I would think that would cause the car to pull to one side when you accelerate hard or get on the brakes. Even if it sits level from side to side the difference in spring rates is going to cause some unbalance. So everything on the front end is not new.

FYI: Slant six with Air got 318 bars, 340 bars are not much beefier. If the car sways around you need to make sure all the suspension parts are up to spec, an alignment on a car with a bad part will not help much. A slant six is easlily within 50lbs of a small block with an aluminum intake...

It's not a Z/28. Front sway bar will make a night and day difference. Are the shock absorbers brand new too? If they are not, just because they pass the bounce test does not mean they are still good either. Handling is a pretty subjective thing, what feels great to one driver may be...

You need a pitman arm puller, Advance auto and others will loan you the tool for free. You need the big one, comes off really easy with it and no broken parts or skinned knuckles. You pay full price for the tool when they give it to you, return it any time for full refund, it is a tool loaner...

On my 73' Duster all I had to do was disconnect the steering coupler and the steering shaft simply slid back a couple of inches towards the firewall. MY PAW 99 dollar headers sit pretty close to my box as well but did not have problems installing them with box in place if memory serves so that...

You may want to check the adjustment on the input shaft thrust bearing, this controls how much back and forth movement the steering shaft has. You can get a fair amount of lost movement if that bearing is set too loose. All OEM boxes have a little lost motion, you may want to check out the rest...

Looks like a good fit to me. If you have a slanty k-member it has a taller motor mount bracket welded on the driver side than what would be on a V/8 one. V/8's have two brackets welded on at same height and general size. And allot of guys just flip the slanty fan shrouds up side down and use...

Everything you have will interchange with a v/8 k member. Sway bars on the /6 and 8 interchange, at least mine did. Changing out a K member is allot of work, you sure the engine is not sitting centered as it would with the correct k member? My 360 headers are close to the steering box and mine...

I have been using Monroe shocks since the early 80's. Ran them on Camaro's, Dusters, Malibu, etc. I just replaced a 24yr old pair of Monro-Matics on the front of my 73 Duster. Amazingly one of the shocks still had a slight charge of nitrogen left in it. I installed a brand new pair of...

I found a set of used SS Springs for my Duster, they raised me more than 2 inches but then again my old standard duty springs were probably sagging a bit. Search for super stock springs on here and there is a thread that shows a bunch of A-bodies with them to give you an idea of how high the...

I learned how to do alignments about 25yrs ago after being frustrated with all the mis-alignments I used to pay for along with poor tread wear and handling charactersitcs. An old mechanic I worked with during my Pontiac resoration stint in the 80's taught me how to use a simple tri-angu-liner...

Check the spring perch spacing and see if they are the same, pretty sure they are. Only thing left to check is the width from drum to drum. The Aspen is going to be wider. Will probably fit depending on what wheel/tire combo you are using. You will also need to get your drive shaft shortened...

Driving a power steering car without the assist working is dangerous and pretty hard on the steering box. In an emergency you don't have a choice, if it's sitting in the driveway, leave it there until you can fix it.

Hi Autox, No wave washer or spring was inside this part, as far as I can tell the black, fragged piece of material was most likely designed to keep the part tite by being slightly oversized when new. While I do not have close ups of parts, I most certainly can take more pictures and post them...