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Anyone ever moved the pivot point on the brake pedal to increase pressure output smd ease the amount of pedal force? I switched to manual 4 wheel discs and it’s hard to stop without a lot of leg. I’s there an aftermarket pedal that works?

Thanks everyone

Any using upgraded pads for better stopping on Kelsey Hayes 4 piston? Thanks

So from what i see here the 6004R rotor for the 66 mustang and the 40154S National seal are the parts I need to do this conversion?. Machine the inner bearing seat down by .271 and cut the rotor down to 11.09 and remove the inner hub surface down to the seal surface to clear the dust shields...

Is it possible Im introducing air back into the front(radiator side) primary port (front brakes on wilwood) after its bench bled by bleeding the back brake lines first? or is it even possible to get air back in the master after its bench bled while pumping to bleed the lines?

Bingo!!. That sounds like my problem. It does feel like only the back brakes are working.

Im hoping my problem isnt the new disc brakes on the rear. car stopped fine with front disc and rear drum.

would it work just as good then if its plumed front to front? or is there an advantage or difference to having it done back to front brakes with a mopar MC?

No they didnt and I should have asked I guess. but I agree with you.

Just talked to the tech desk at wilwood. They said on the 2 the master cylinders(7/8 and 1") that the primary port is the farthest from the firewall??????? So the front brakes go to the front (radiator side) port. Does this sound correct???

Do you have 4 wheel disc? Mine stopped good until I added rear discs.

Thanks. I have plumed it 2 ways, with front(radiator side) of the MC going to the front brakes(per wilwood tech) and then the firewall going to the back brakes then I reversed them as factory. Are wilwood mc's different or are they confused? Lot of good info here,thanks for taking time.

Did not know about a residual valve. Bet thats it. Would that cuase slow stopping too?

thanks

thanks

In the master cyl? What is that for? How do you open it?

was not moving all the way ji think. I pulled it back but still locked.

Thanks everyone for the replies. Any more info on Cass's contact? Dont know exactly whats going on but along with the car stopping slow the calipers right now are locked??? Any ideas?

Thanks

Will do but his website only shows a 15/16.

Got 4 wheel manual wilwood disc brakes installed. Hard pedal and car just wont stop good. Thinking I have a 1-1/32 now. Hoping a 7/8 master cyl will help. Any suggestions on which one too use? I have seen some posts saying use a 7/8 for pwr brakes. Thanks

Nope, calipers. Piston seemed too sloppy in the bores. So I am thinking they were cocking and binding when applied.

Oh i bought them new. I just ditched the ssbc and went with wilwood front discs. Now its stopping, Finally.

no why?

No rust our corrosion inside the bores at all. O rings are pliable and not brittle.

Not sure the stock calipers would fit on the ssbc brackets

Think I found the culprit. 4 Piston SSBC calipers barely moving out with brakes applied. Took the brake pads out. (They were pressed snugly against the rotor). Pushed the pedal and only 1 piston moved. Blocked that one and the others barely moved. I have 1400 PSI,( I finally got a gauge on it)...

Thanks. Im going to call ssbc and see what pads are available and which come in the kit.

Still battling this 4 wheel SSBC disc brake set up. Ive bled them so many times, I even pressure bled them. Tried 1 1/32 and 15/16 masters and still not stopping good. Im thinking I just don't have enough pressure at the calipers. How much pressure do I need? Would adding a power booster help...