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I just purchased something just like that at autozone. Think I’ll try it first before the wife.

Ya I think I’m beating a dead horse at this point. Luckily I’ve got a pretty patient wife to help me manually bleed

I’m thinking going to have the wife come pump the pedal for me to manually bleed, it’s just like Rusty said; going to take a minute or two (or a couple hours lol )

I’ve got a little play in the top position of the pedal so I’m confident there that All is good with the pushrod. Im thinking #1 from above post is the issue. As I mentioned before, after bench bleed there was no fluid coming out the ports before even installing the brake lines. It did bench...

I did blow out the lines with air to try to clean them before installing all the new parts and didn’t have any restrictions. So I think I’m good there

70 bee, all drums, I’m referring to the wheel cylinders as the slaves. That helps me to understand why no fluid is coming out of the master!! I will try to prop the pedal down a bit and see if I can get some fluid to come out of that master.

That’s an interesting tool. I will keep that in mind just in case.

I’ll give that a try. After three days of waiting not a drop of fluid has come out of that master. The gravity method is so easy but it’s just not happening

I thought about doing it that way but with dry lines I’m wondering if I would just be sucking air back into master

Have new master, all new slaves, empty brake lines, everything is dry except for the master which I bench bled and is full of dot 5. Have slave bleed valves open down below. No fluid will come out of the master. Do I need to push my brake pedal down and put a wedge in to keep it down? Even...

Your bottom spring does not look right to me but my cars are 70 to 72 maybe they changed something. My cars have a long spring going across the bottom, shoe to shoe the spring you have is going shoe to brake adjuster swivel . On my cars the swivel has an arm spring that keeps the tension on it...