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For the Akron/Canton/Massillon area guys we have two places that I know of to get race gas. The Marathon Station on SR 172 by Doctors Hospital ahs Turbo Blue 110 in the pump beside the garage for $6.40 a gallon. Beaver Petroleum on Waynesburg Rd carries Sunoco Race fuels and either has them in...

Yeah with a sump you should always have a filter before the pump......they have a happier life that way. Here's a couple I found on Jegs: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_756121_-1_10293 This one is really nice to use with a sump and/fuel cell...

So you have clean filtered fuel going into the pump.....that's the way Mallory recomended me set-up mine....then I have a small inline filter up by the carb.

I can get pics of my shims tonight if you want?

Yep...had the same problem with mine. No matter how I adjusted the linkage there was not enough pedal travel for the car to idle right or go full throttle. I fixed mine by pulling the carpet back some and putting some aluminum shims under the bracket that mounts the pedal to the floor pan thus...

ahhh I forget about the different rules and regs for commiefornia.......

I took mine the local radiator shop and have them boil and acid etch it then they sealed it and pressure checked it and filled any holes that poped through....$80. It was much cheaper than a new one......then I pulled it out and put in a fuel cell. I tried selling it for $20 at the Chrysler...

AED Performance : http://www.aedperformance.com/ I get all my carb parts from them.....they might not be the cheapest but I get the right stuff the first time and it's good quality parts. I love there non-stick reusable needle/seat gaskets.

I would go with a 670 street Avenger carb.....vacuum secondaries and electric choke.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=23277

I would say a 950 but since it is street only......I have a really nice 750 vac secondary carb for sale....it has a Proform mainbody, Billet baseplate and a Quickfuel vac secondary housing. I'm only getting rid of it because I went to a 650 DP......it's be a really nice strret carb for that motor.

They are on the front of the tank you might have to jack up the rear of the car and put stands on the frame so the suspension drops and the rear end drops out of the way but you should be able to get it out without dropping the tank.....IIRC. I have a fuel cell in my car and haven't messed with...

You shouldn't have to drop the tank to change that.......If you are gonna drop the tank get new straps or at least the J-bolts unless they are in good condition. Also I'd upgrade the straw to the 3/8" pick-up while you are in there and buying a new sender. Get a new sender, gasket and lock...

You couldn't pay me to run any Edelbrock carb on my motor....I tried on of them when i first built the motor and I spent all kinds of money on their stupid calibration kits, jets, metering rods and springs and could never get rid of the bog I had.....I bought a used Holley for $10 off a buddy...

http://www.proformparts.com/mistore/productdisplay.php?sku=515834&hdwt=31101&loc=101&dealer=no&company_id=100719 Price maybe different since I am using a vacuum secondary carb.

Proform makes nice billet base plates that will fix the problem for under a $100. I put one of those on my Vac Sec carb to fix the same problem and it's a really nice piece.

Sprat it down with some PB blaster and then just hit it with a screw driver or brass punch like Goody said.....you'll have to whack it pretty good to get it to budge but she will come off.

How much of the tube is left if you'd cut the flare off? There might be enough to slide the ferrule on and tighten it up. Ther ferrule is about 1/2 wide. NHRA says you can have 12" max of rubber fuel line so you could flare the end of the aluminum line and use a short piece of rubber hose to...

Your using the stock sending unit? If so I hope the straw is bigger than 5/16. The easiest way I have found to use the stock sender/pick-up is to cut off the "nipple" and the straw. Drill a 3/8" or 1/2" hole where that used to be and use a piece of 3/8" or 1/2" SS tubing and bend up a new...

They should....I use them to connect to my SS trans cooler lines too. You are running a carb or 3 IIRC so you won't be going over 15psi so they should be fine. I know of guys that plumbed their entire fuel system with them.

Yep...i have some on my return line. Here is what you need: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_10001_10002_17005_-1_10019

Here are the ones I use up by the carb...they are Jaz brand. The blue one is for the carb and the red one is for the fuel solenoid on the nitrous kit:

I run a Mallory one like that before the pump then up by the carb I have a high flow sintered bronze in line filter up by the carb.

Well I need a 1/2 inch line to feed the motor and feed the nitrous kit.....even the motor by itself needs the 1/2" supply. It's all about flow and volume and keeping your electric pump happy.....the bigger the line the easier for it to push and the cooler the pump runs.

I got my tranny lines from Fine Lines.....they fit fantastic. Funny thing is they didn't have any listed for a 904 in a '73 A-body......they told me to bring mine up so they could make a copy and they'd give me mine for free.....well I didn't have the orginals but they did give me a smokin deal...

i beg to differ on the return. With an eletric pump you should run a return.....not only will the fuel stay cooler it will let the pump run cooler and it won't have backpressure so the pump will last longer.

That is correct.......

I used a cheap in-line fuel filter from Napa to let air in and out but keep dirt out on my vent line......the line vents the cell though a grommet in the trunk floor. I also have a roll-over valve on the vent too. The fitting on the right in the pic is for my return line........

I used braided on the supply and aluminum on the return side when I plumbed my Fuel cell.......Cruise E-bay......I found my whole set-up...pump, filter, line and fittings for $200. Some guy was stripping out his car to put it back to stock.

IIRC my '73 had a 14 Gallon tank.......