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Yep...I agree with Ramcharger. If you must run an Electric pump on the stree the CSR or Meziere. My buddy runs a CSR with no issues at all on his 416 and it sees street duty alot.

Not sure if they flow enough water to be used on the street.....and honestly I doubt it adds 20hp.......you'll probably never notice the difference between and mechanical and electric pump.

Gears and converter...something in the 3000 range and it will feel like a whole new car IMO. That would be the cheapest and easiest with out diving into the motor.....drag radials will help especially if you a smoking the tires of the line but your suspension needs to be working correctly for...

Maybe he'll see the thread and update us. Of course as we all know and it's probably happened to us before electronics are kind of a crap shoot.....you'll get one that will last 20 years and one that will last 20 minutes....I like that he's (FBO) is out there giving guys a stock appearing...

Yep...there has even been a few posts on here about it IIRC. I don't think it's Don's fault it's just crappy boxes from his supplier. Even with the people that say the MSD boxes fail I have heard of far less people being stranded with the MSD box vs the Mopar ECU's.......I mean how many times...

I'm an MSD believer myself as well.

hmm....are those flat tops? Cast or forged? Are they zero decked or in the hole? I have a feeling with those pistons you are gonna get the biggest bang for the buck with the Magnum swap.

You can actually use the old LA style valve covers on the Magnum heads to help hide the conversion or just because you have them as well.

Smog heads....hmmmm. Hopefully some of the others here with more knowledge on Mopar heads will chime in here.

Are you running small valve J heads? If so yeah they are good heads especailly if you have the pistons that can get the CR up.

Fisrt thing I see is to ditch that Performer intake and get a M1 single plane or at least and RPM air-gap.....if you have the space under the hood. That intake is choking flow. Then have the 2.02's and 1.60's put in the heads and a bigger cam to take advantage of the new valve size.

Most of the 1-5/8 tube headers will fit the PS cars.....so I have seen anyway. From my experience the cheaper the headers the more you will need a hammer to get them to fit.

Sorry Ace....not you I meant canner78 on what kinda of headers did he buy.

The Hooker Super Comp 1-3/4" tube headers will NOT fit with PC or a sway bar. What headers did you buy?

KB's will be you best bet...they have a really nice forged line as well witht he same dimensions as the hyper line.

I love my ACC converter....it has been great but you can't go wrong with Dynamic or PTC either but I feel ACC quality is the same as the others they are just cheaper. A converter will make a huge difference. A 650 DP will be perfect as well....a 750 will be to big...I just went thorugh all...

A 100shot will be the easiest and cheapest way....and you'll pick up more than a 1/2 second with it. I dropped off almost a full second with a 100 shot. Plus he has one power adder and you should have one as well.

Those speed pro pistons are cheap because they are no better than the stock pistons.....they will sit down in the hole just like the stock ones. Get the KB's save the money up and buy the rings......it might take you longer but you'll be happier with the motor in the long run. Patence there...

Nope that is a rear sump......you need a center sump. And by those pics...I would say that motor was not recently rebuilt.....or ever at all. You need to get a couple of good books and do some reading in study hall......Hot to Hot Rod Small Block Mopars would be a good start. We were all in...

Not sure but they need to be pulled apart and checked regardless so it's easy enough to add one if it's not there. Mancini should have the kit to add it.

Ya know some of the diesel oils still have the zinc but it is greatly reduced. People need to do some research on the ratings and go from there. If you want to be totally safe run a racing oil that isn't EPA approved for passenger cars and then you don't have to worry.

You guys need to realize that the Diesel oils on the shelves have now dropped the zinc package as well....the 2007 Diesel emmisions requirments have tightened up the restrictions. With the new fuel and the new particulate filters ont he diesel trucks the ZDDP package was yanked out of the...

I would be interested in an new STR-12.....only problem I have is I'd need another nitrous plate fore the other carb......that would be so cool to look at that under the hood.

I got a set of burrs for aluminum off eBay......there are lots of kits on there.

Plus chamber design and head material will have an affect on it. Closed chamber heads don't benefit near as much as open chamber heads do.

I will use the K&N air filters but not their oil filters....and I'll run with an old used oil filter before I'd put a new fram on my motor......they are garbage. I run Napa Gold (WIX) oil filters on the car and Durange and a Fleet Guard on the Cummins. Wanna talk about filters.......Cummins...

What heads are you putting bigger valves in? Bigger valves aren't always better.....If you are staying with factory heads 1.88 intake valves are big enough for the combo you are talking about.....2.02's are gonna make it lllaaazzzzyyy out of the hole.....a small valve with help with veloicity...

I just got my e-mail back from KB's tech guys and they say as long as the igniton is retarded and I have plenty of fuel the pistons will be fine. I also have to make sure I use their ring end gap calc numbers too. He tols me to start out with the mix rich and lean it out which is what I do...

Already done....-8an supply and return. I'm also going to go to a dedicated fuel pump for the nitrous system when I up the shot to a 200hp level.

I think they can handle the 200 shot.....I'll just need to get the rotating assembly balanced and make sure the tune doesn't go lean and it should be okay. I'm also leaning at going to a 2-stage set-up on the nitrous.