Search results for query: *

those are really dang nice.

hemi bearings.

rich too.

that vert will cruise around between 1800 and 2200rpm and keep the single plane intake.

check the phasing on the cam and if it's not between 102 and 104 put it there.

comp

how about advancing the cam 4 degrees first? after that get a bigger one.

I think the OP fell off the planet.

I think that head gasket will be the first thing to go. the good felpro 2009 will hold the 200 shot.

10.7 is fine with 93 octane. the lighter piston is a better choice. go wth a bigger solid cam, up closer to .600"

i'll go with Justin's idea.

some times the outer arm needs bent to line up correctly. after you file them make sure they are still parallel and clean them with alcohol or nail polish remover.

try cometics and over torque the head bolts, make sure they a ARP first. O-rings and copper will work great. there is nothing wrong with that compression ratio. you just have to retard the time more. and don't skimp on the gas jet.

how about some slicks for the track?

you might should get rid of all the 5/16" and #4an stuff out of the fuel system first. don't those carbs depend on vacuum to keep the secondaries closed. here's my theory yours may vary. maybe when the clutch is let out the the vacuum signal goes sky high and they go shut. you might try a...

if it's not up graded to electronic ignition that would be the second up grade to installing a K&N air filter. a free flow muffler or dual exhaust system. tune-up like said and new oil and trans fluid.

moparwedge: here's what will need to be done to the carbs. purchase the tops for the vacuum pods that tie the signals together. next get 2 vacuum spring kits and use the black springs in each pod. next 2 accelerator pump cam kits and use the green ones. buy the simplest straight throttle rod and...

who built your 408?

cost wise, go 5.9

if your 400 has stock pistons i'd go for a lift .550"+

P i c s

you are all right about starting off with a grow into nitrous kit. I started off with one 125hp kit, wow i liked that. then a second 125hp kit, wowsers, I liked that even more. well then I had to add a cheater to it set at 250 horse, holy smoke did that have the *** kicking effect. after all...

what real compression is in the OP's motor? books say 10-1 but is that the real case, did he check it? did he use a 1009 head gasket? that will dictate how much timing needs to be taking out. the less static compression the more timing it needs. the combustion pressure still needs to peak at...

still need to do what I suggested to keep the cylinder to cylinder transfer in check.

I reckon you might want to have the block decked and the heads mill just enough to keep from blowing the gaskets. if you're getting any water into the cylinders it doesn't compress very good. use new head bolts or studs.

where was the leaking taking place? rings? intake valve? exhaust valve? a for instance, my supercharged motor leaked 1-2% thru the rings on all but #5, it was an exhaust valve at 8%, so off came the head to have it reseated at the shop. your build sheet ring gaps are fine. if yours is leaking...

your leak down numbers should be anywhere from 1-3%.

look on e-bay, you'll find the electric ones there.

maybe the problem is all the retainers are the same for the wedge and hemi but it is the locks that fit the valve stems that are different.

I got that info out of an old "DC" manual.