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I would change the crossmember and mount from the newer a body with the spool mount.It can never separate.

If your crank isn’t drilled,your only other option is pilot bearing from a Dakota pressed in the crank flange.If you go that route you will have to cut 5/8-3/4” (can’t remember exactly)off the input shaft off your transmission

Those original v gate boots are way too big to use on an a body.Nowhere to screw the retainer trim ring to at the back.

On my 4 speed swap the clutch fork pivot in bellhousing was too short.Found out there was a taller one in my other bellhousing and it solved the problem.I was maxed out on adjustment with minimal throw out bearing movementAgain just my experience and I had no idea there was different pivots

Does it look like the fork fingers are close to slipping off the throw out bearing when the clutch pedal is pushed down?

If it’s not drilled to accept input shaft you can use a bearing from a Dakota and drive into the flange but the downside is you’ll have to cut a bit off your input shaft.I did it with no problems

Also make sure your crank is drilled to accept the input shaft

I had mine drilled for cast crank 440 11” 143 tooth.Works great

For a cast crank?

Or post a wanted ad on here?

I think it’s from Dec 1973.On the machined pad where it says pp833 use the last 4 numbers.Go to max wedge.com click on 10,000 day calendar.Type in those numbers in the search box and it tells you the date.

Diaphragm clutch?

If you center it you might be reaching for it,being a straight short shifter.Just something to think about.The floor mods are so minor you can easily put it back to stock.I didn't want to cut my floor either but I'm glad I did now.The rods are pretty tight in there and definitely didn't want to...

A little fab work at the back also,where you see a small round piece added.Fairly easy

If you need better pics I can take more up close after work.

I posted the pics in the link.Oops!Anyways here's a few of mine.

Here's a few pics of mine.

Adjustable brake push Rod?To get the height equal

Havnt driven it yet but looks like it's gonna work great.Street strip car that's hopefully gonna be ready for engine breakin shortly.

One more pic for someone thinking about a ramrod shifter

I used a hurst ramrod shifter so the rear of the hump needed some minor fab work

I made mine also.Just a support plate

Second pic looks like B E body,same as my 72 Charger.Top pic is the same as my Dart Sport.Hope this helps

I agree you can only slide it back as far as the step allows.

What brand are you using for offset dowels?RobbMC performance sells some nice locking ones.Used them on my lakewood and work great.Just thought I'd throw that out there