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i havent posted in a while....heres a photo from 2 years ago--car now has a Dana / ladder bars/ MT 10.5 tires

Not sure on your wiring , but Yes---run a wire back to your switch or battery. Not a big deal. Thats how mine is. Just be very careful how you route it--if it goes near any sharp edges, headers, etc.. try to move it OR you can put a piece of rubber fuel line around it where ever it looks...

I wanted to also add an update-- I switched to ladder bars from my super stock springs-which would rarely dead hook. I had traction issues for a long time man.... The car loves the ladders ! Last week it went 6.40 at 106.6 , with a best of 1.39 60' . It drives like a completely diff...

I use one --and i did run it without the hoses on for a race (for some reason ) and my intake valley pan expanded up real high ! it was pushed up into the bottom of my M1 manifold !

Awesome------we are all rooting for ya !!!!!

This pic is 5 years ago--but with SS springs and no lowering blocks / 28.5 x 11.5 ET streets . Today , I have 1" blocks and Hoosier 29.5x 10.5 tires , mini tubbed , Calvert shocks. The car still has a little rake to it even with the blocks. Ive never had an issue using lowering blocks.

sounds like the wrong length pushrods? or improper adjustment / pre load on hydraulic ? And /or improper adjustment as far as "order" . Over-tightening shaft bolts wont send push rods flying around . Do you have hydraulic lifters ?

Agree - plus AJ was doing much better on the tree. Now we have Jeg ---- this is a good thing for us ......:cheers: :-D

By "fuel rail" you mean the dual feed fuel line ?? Reading back-- i think so. the dual inlet fuel line--whatever brand--for the 4160 or 4150 carb is PLENTY big for a 225 slant 6. i bet you a beer thats NOT your issue ,as long as your carb is clean and you have 5 psi fuel...

clamp the front sections / from the axle forward. Not behind the axle. just makes some clamps out of 1/4" steel or whatever wont bend. Install them anywhere you can-- where the factory ones are not. I think i might have added 2 per side--id have to go look

Its worth a try buddy --- like I said I had missing at 5000-5800 and it was the cap 2 different times. The outside contacts looked new but the center contact looked "burnt"

600 holley , red pump, 5/16 or 3/8 line , 5-7 lbs pressure on a slant 6 is plenty in my opinion. Set the floats so gas is just dribbling out of the sight holes with the engine idling. I dont think you need to jet it bigger than what it came with--if so maybe 2 or 3 sizes up Is it idling...

id have to go look , but i think its a 20 or 30a fuse. Not sure how many amps it pulls but ive never popped a fuse or had trouble . I use a generic 900ca amp battery and stock alt.

I LOVE my HHR fan. It was $55 new on ebay. Flows a ton of air. Ive heard 3000 cfm . My car wont get over 190 or so in the BRUTAL humidity/ heat in the summer. BB in 70 Dart . Never had any electrical issues--i run a stock alternator .

i mostly run 1/8 . 493 3300 w/ driver eddy rpm heads hughes flat tappet 4500 stall T-brake 10.5 -29.5 hoosier 4:10 gear ss springs

If you ever want to try fenderwells--- spring for the Hedman Hustlers. I love mine. I cracked and broke 3 sets of Hooker fenderwells ;)

Well.... I tried everything with the SS spring / Caltrac combo--never got it to work. I will be getting the Calvert mono springs this winter ... :p

Heres mine at the track a couple years ago . 002/003 springs . If you want to lower it get some lowering blocks . SS springs naturally jack up the car . http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v225/solrizzo/?action=view&current=10-7-201000013.mp4

Hey ! !!--when will we meet ??? im in des moines you know.......:joker: anyway--im at about 12.5:1 and i run a 50/50 blend of 110 and 92 or 93 pump (cant even get that here in dsm) , at 35 degrees total.

id say 10.0 to 10.10 easily

joe is a real nice guy --but i had a big problem with their transbrake. it never worked right for over 2 months --their customer service is awful because they never answer the phone. he had me try this and that--i even pulled the trans out and had my guy go thru the entire thing--trans was fine...

NICE DARTS GUYS !! love that red one.. older pics of my junk-

if you are looking at tire sizes--you need to go to the tire makers website and read all the dimensions -- the photo above says it all.

oops---sorry - i mis typed--i think it was around 6300-6400 or so with that setup im talking 1/4 mile , not 1/8 ....... i have a great pic of 2 tires for comparison--i will post now - 28.5 x 11.5 Hoosier Qtp ? and a new 29.5 x 10.5 Hoosier (the big one)--

ok--i see. for reference, my dart had 28.5 x 11.5 MT tires with a 410 and trapped at 6200 .

4:88 is to steep for most cars--unless your are only racing 1/8 mile with a tall tire(no street) , and/or you want to spin your engine to 7500. the best all around gear , that allows different tire heights , street driving , and good ol leverage, is a 410 . in my opinion.....

you dont have to run bias ply front tires ! is that what you meant ?? ive used 165R15 front tires for years and years on a 15 x 4.5 weld wheel.

that thing is gonna fly !! i dont think those tires are big enough though ........:thumblef:

Just put some slicks under it. ANY consistent vehicle is good for bracket racing. If it will run within .02 - .03 of your dial , just cut a light and you will go rounds. if its slow out of the hole --- deep stage it every pass.