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I bet it makes more power than the 383 I had in my '72 4 door Valiant, and that ran 14's with 2.76's in the rear, crossing the stripe at the top of second gear.

It's the same valve body, only the parking rod changes. I have wired them all the way back before, and street drove that way for years. Doing so makes for high shift points in drive, as the trans "thinks" you have the pedal to the floor whether you do or not. I got away with it as the car had...

With the Mallory 140 and a 3/8" line I wouldn't worry a bit. Lots of really fast cars got by with Holley blue pumps, and I like that Mallory pump much better.

Solids on one daily driver/ beater 383 A body for 4 years, 2 street strip cars with motor plates, 1 Jeep Cj-5 with a 360, solid mounts for 10+ years, 0 issues. I love 'em.

Cool vid, thanks for posting it.

I don't think I lost much with my front fenders, maybe 20# for the pair, (glassteck stuff), but the stock hood on my Barracuda weighs almost 70#, and the pin on 6 pack replacement I believe is about 18#, thats a bunch off the nose.

A few years ago, a racer reached in the window of his car in the pits and hit the key, it fired in gear, and began lurching towards his juvenile son, he panicked, threw himself through the window, to hit the brake with his hand, he missed and hit the throttle, running his son over and killing him.

I wouldn't be afraid of the low gears. Optimal? maybe not, but the first 1/2 of the track is the hardest, and if you can hook, the low gears will help a bunch. How do I know? My mismatched Barracuda shifts at 5,000 rpms. flat, any higher it slows down. I have a 28"ish tire. 4.86's went 12.40...

In the old Motors manuals, they had a list of the maximum distance cars could be flat towed with the driveshaft in. The Torqueflites had far and away the longest, I believe 100 miles. I car dollied my Barracuda to the track 4 or 5 times last year, a good 50 miles each way. Trans fluid looks...

A quick thought, what are you using for feeler gauges when setting the gap in the distributor? I believe it has to be something non magnetic. I believe using regular steel feeler gauges screws either the pick up, or the reluctor up some how.

I ran Crane doubles sold for the LA engine on mine with my .530" (before lash) Isky solid. I might see if I can find one of the leftover springs and test it. I doubt they were #400 open pressure springs. Thats a ton for the small valves in a slant. I couldn't tell you where mine floated, I...

Mine was in the 383 I did recently. Worth checking. I had checked and set the gap, but the slop in it was greater, and allowed contact. Ran fine to 5K, then popcorn.

For some reason, when I saw you mentioned MSD, I was thinking it was a whole system. If you have a stock style distributor, pull the cap, and pull the rotor/center shaft side to side. My brand new MP distributor had a ton of slop, and the reluctor wheel would contact the pickup at about...

The 383 is basically a re-ringed bottom end, milled closed chamber heads, ported. RPM intake, 750 carb. It has stock rockers on a little hydraulic cam that makes about .450" lift at the valve. By best MPH, (108 ) I think it was making 400 HP at 5,000 rpms. The first trip to the track, with no...

Any idea what you engine pulls for vacuum? The 750 I had on my slant needed a plugged power valve, as it had 3 inches of vacuum at idle in neutral. Once I found that out and plugged the power valve, I had to jet WAY up. It ran really well, and I drove it almost daily for 2 summers.

Mine is: Iron headed 383, aluminum motor plate,manual everything, factory disc brakes, back halved, heavy 2x3" rear frame. Leaf sprung 8-3/4" rear, 15x15" Convo Pro rears, 15x4 skinnies up front. No rear seat, 1 race bucket up front for now. No heater, 8 point cage/bar. 15 gal fuel cell...

My point in mentioning the 440 I played with was the cookies probably won't fly out if it makes it to 6,600 by accident. Yes the stroke is longer than a 440, but it doesn't have nearly the weight, or forged 6 pack pistons swinging on the rods, or 13 yeas of steady abuse. I agree, shift it...

My guess would be something other than the crank will give you problems first. Not a SB, but I fooled with an old bracket motor (440), a friend bought. Ran 10 years with a ton of boost from a 6-71 supercharger. Ran another 3-4 with different heads, (10.6/1) in a bracket car, spinning 6,800...

The truth is, the 8.5 to 1 is the factory rating. If checked, you are really probably in the 7's. Not busting on you, just letting you know I haven't ever seen a non blueprinted engine of any brand make it's advertised compression. You can only do so much with the existing pistons. If you...

A fellow I know was running 9.60's in a Challenger with the 30 spline stuff, but aftermarket axles. The ring gear gave up the ghost, but the axles were fine.

Sounds like you aren't the only one.. ;)

The 2,800 was without me, and there used to be alot less of me... figure 2,975 race weight. I never got that car to the track. From (ahem) "informal" testing, I'm pretty sure it was in the 14's and mid 90's or so for Mph.

I ran the lightest spring I could get in my 750 vacuum, and it ran really well, even though I really needed a higher stall. My car weight was 2,800 and change, 4.86 gears.

Not being a prick, but on their website, 8.25" is the smallest R&P set I see listed.

7-1/4" or 8-1/4"? I have never heard of 4.10 gears being available for the 7-1/4"?

I ran a 750 Vacuum with the lightest spring I could, so I can't say for sure it was using all of it's cfm rating, but it ran really well. I had a very low vacuum reading that went to 0 when in gear, so I had to plug the power valve and jet WAY up. I used Autolite 65 plugs in mine too, 4.86 gear.

The one slant I fooled with had a .530" Isky solid in it, full length headers, 4 bbl, much of the same stuff as yours. I did run double valve springs, which I'm not sure is necessary with the small, light valves in a slant, but I ran a 750 cfm. carb. I pinged it off 7K a bunch of times. I...

Just being test fitted, thats why the ugly water pump housing. I absolutely love motor plates!

Keep picking away, A guy I know in N.Y. has a Scamp with the origional 318, (now .060" over), that runs consistant 10.80's naturally aspirated. It can be done. It's taken him years, but he got there.

Thanks, I have the .528" but it looks like a bigger stick would be faster with my combo. The .533" is the MP hydraulic, right? The lift isn't far off the Bullit, and the A .050" is higher. Maybe I will get lucky... I will notch the pistons if I have to, but I would like to avoid that if possible.