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The Z bar is the pivoting link that operates the clutch, between the frame and the bell.

Running 2" TTI headers, you need to use the TTI Z bar or it wont work, I tried and almost decided to revamp the stock type Z bar to make it fit but after weighing out my time versus buying TTI's I bought theirs. I will say you wont believe it will clear to look at it before you install it but it...

More pics, to tired to go any further tonight. Might be turn key by Sunday.

Engine and trans are in car. Hooked up the exhaust last night too... getting close. I'll try to put up more pics tonight.

Very nice. Love Lil Red's, owned one and a Warlock too.

To those that replied kindly without judgement thank you. I thought of deleting this thread but instead for those I will continue as I go. As far a dyno sheet, you know what they say about a first impression, you only get one chance at it.

Not my first rodeo, thanks.

we have already proven this combo. Makes plenty of HP/TQ with no oil issue. Did not run out of fuel or air either. thanks for the advice.

Its not like I took them out of the box and walked to the engine and bolted them on, 704 is after 1.6

Thanks.Its a .030 over 440, blueprinted and zero decked. Balanced rotating assembly. Full floated KB's hyperU's, the cam is my own grind specs mechanicle full roller billet with intake and exhaust lift at .704, custom push rods from Smith's, Harland Sharp 1.6 roller rockers, 440 source heads...

Starting with power plant pics and adding more as I complete the car. 440 as it sits waiting for me to finish dressing it for install. more to come... soon I hope... sucks having a full time job and trying to complete a project...