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In the case of my '68 Newport, LOTS of extra metal in the insides of the rockers.

I doubt my last Slant made any where near 300 HP, in fact I would guarantee it. The light weight helped, and so did the 4.86 gears. It surprised many people on the street.

Bill, believe me, I've watched those videos many times. I really want to do a turbo Slant. Boost works on bigger engines too though... I kept my last slant with the 4 bbl. header, ported head and .530" solid.

A true performance focused enthusiast will have to determine what power level they are after. A 500 HP slant isn't doing it without help, Ie. a turbo or a good shot of nitrous. A 500 HP V-8 will require some serious mods, but is less likely to require "help". What most people consider a...

I'm relying on memory from 20 years ago, so keep that in mind, but.. I think I lost 5-8 Mpg., so it was quite a bit. Do a bunch of measuring on the Scout rear before you buy it. Measure flange to flange to make sure it will work. I ran wheel adapters on mine, which were about 3/4" thick per...

Unfortunately, unless you get lucky and score an 8-3/4" rear, you will get an axle that requires a good bit of cash to set up gears. The 8.25" rear is a little easier to find, and generally cheaper, but you won't find one stock with much lower than 3.2 gears. Other than strength, you won't...

If I were a betting man, I'd bet you have 2.9sumpins in a 7.25 rear. If drag racing is your bag, I would jump a full ratio to see a real difference. I wouldn't waste my time going less than 3.91's. I've changed 1/4 to 1/2 ratio, and it's just too small of a change. Going in your case from say...

Gears are the single biggest improvement as far a drag performance is concerned, for the least money spent. If you don't mind doing some "slightly hacky" work, I will tell you the 60's International Scouts, the model 80's and 800 have a rear axle width that will fit under an A-body. MANY came...

When you do finally extricate it, make sure the gasket doesn't stay stuck to the engine. It is quite likely the gasket has bonded to the filter housing, and that is what you are fighting. Putting a new filter on over the old gasket can lead to a massive, unexpected oil leak. Good luck.

Been using the Lucas stuff. Ignore the directions that say to use a full bottle. I think SlantsixDan on here did the math, and it only takes a few spoonfuls to equal the Zinc levels of the old oils. I have also been running 15-40 Diesel oil, as it has a higher Zinc level, is normally cheaper...

The guys getting big Nitrous explosions usually are shooting a bunch, and get it in the engine at too low of an RPM. I believe NOS likes 3,000 rpms. and wide open throttle minimum. My brother has run scads of the stuff 150 Hp at a time through a mostly stock 350 Chebby, with nary even a melted...

Also keep in mind if that was a factory compression rating, it was quite likely at least a point lower. I have checked a few now of various makes, and about a point lower than advertised is the norm. My 383 was rated at 10.0/1, with open chambered heads, but it took a milled set of closed...

If it will be a while until you are ready to turbo one, the 2 BBl along with a heavy milling of the head made a huge difference for me years ago. I believe I had .100" milled off the head, I did a back cut on the valves with a file in a drill press, (stay away from the actual sealing portion)...

Well, for a brief moment, I'll try to stick to the origional question. Cheapest way, 1: gears. Slants come with lousy gears for acceleration, 2.94's in the ones I had. If you are really cheap, (like me), a 60's International Scout (model 80) has almost the same track as an A body, the...

Run a hot (+) wire to the (+) side of the coil, use something metal (screwdriver) to cross between the large poles on the starter relay on the fender to get it to crank. It'll prolly need a good shot of gas down the carb too if it's been dry a while. The 80 engine might be a 2 bbl...

I ran a 225 for a few years with stock sized valves, .100" off the head, and a .530" 240° @ .050" solid lifter cam with no clearance issues. How big of a cam are you thinking of?

Sounds like you have a stock stall converter? I ran a .530" solid Isky cam for 2 years, and I lashed at .018"..022" as I recall. Yes, it too was a pain with a stock stall. The 4.88 rear gear was all that saved me.