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I don't want to step on Panas thread, but I believe this question was aimed at me. The short answer is : "It goes slower". It will happily rev to 6,000+, but it slows down. I have always heard fastest ET usually comes by shifting 500-1,000 rpms. past peak power. If true, this thing is flat...

I didn't read every word of the last 3 pages, so if I am repeating any info, I apologize. I have a 383 in my Barracuda with the stock style no valve relief pistons. Mine sit .020" in the .030" over bores. I have a lightly milled set of "516's", with 2.08/1.74" nail head valves. (the nail head...

X 2. Thats what is on my 10/1 383, and it works great. Sheds some weight over the stock starter too.

Thats a slick trick, Bob! I'll remember it.

If you are about -.020" below deck, and are running 2.08/1.74" valves, with a typical composite gasket, you will be really close with piston to valve contact. If you are running stock rocker gear it may save you as you won't get full lift due to them typically not being a true 1.5 ratio. I...

If I read your first post correctly, you don't want to go with aluminum, I.E. aftermarket heads. To make what I would guess to be a 600 crank HP 440, you are going to need a really well thought out combo of intake, cylinder head flow, cam timing and exhaust. I am pretty sure by the time you...

500 to the wheels is a stout 440, I'm guessing around 600 HP at the flywheel. Good compression, spend the money on the heads, you'll need them to hit 600 HP.

I didn't CC mine before altering them, so I can't say exactly what contributed the most to the low CC number. Dwayne Porter gave me a number for how much a nail head valve will reduce volume over a tulip head valve, but it was a few CC's, the upgrade to a 1.74" exhaust should have knocked off a...

I'm not sure if this was directed at me, but I think 73 CC's was what I got, and I only did 1 on each head to get a vague idea of my compression level. The nail head valves take away CC's, and they had a light mill to flatten the decks. You could get well over 10.0 to 1 with a thin steel head...

My .030" over 383 has a set of 516's on it, with a light mill, nail head valves, 1.74" exhaust, and a -.020" deck height,with a .039" head gasket, it makes 9.97 to 1 compression with stock flat top pistons. The downside is cam clearance, which will be limited to around .500" lift, but if thats...

Sub frame connectors alone will be fine for most usage, I much prefer the weld in type. I'm pretty sure the C-body oil pan will work fine, I used it on my first backyard build, a '72 Valiant with a 383 from a C-body. Do some searching, there are several options for exhaust, from the manifolds...

I have used the 2" primary TTI headers in 2 builds so far, a 440 '67 Dart, and a 383 '67 Barracuda. I didn't bother reading the directions on the headers, and only after did I read they won't fit a low deck with stock port location heads. Oops.. They were MUCH tighter on the low deck, they...

A friend put a re-ring 413 in his Dart. Comp with the 906's he used figured out in the 7.5 to 1 range. stock rockers, MP 484 cam, M1 single plane, 950 HP carb, 2-1/4"! custom headers. It ran 12.6's in his Dart the first time to the track, (I was there). He later stabbed in the old "509" cam...

I've seen a bunch of ruined Isky/Crane rockers from running them up against the factory hold downs without the hardened washers at the ends. Running them on stock factory shafts doesn't seem to work so well either, they like to gall. I think a hardened shaft with some oiling grooves would be best.

Great cam pick in my opinion. It won't require a lot of spring pressure, and will be easy on valve train parts.

The regular Performer is a good intake, but I consider it basically a stock replacement. I think I remember dyno tests, and it only picked up a few HP over stock. It does shave some weight though. The 750 Cfm carb size is good, given the higher gears and lower stall you will be running. If...

The stock stall changes my cam pick a bit. The stock stall in those big passenger cars was a low stall unit, and that coupled with a too large cam can make for a dog off the line. If you are definitly keeping the low stall, I could recommend the factory 440 magnum grind cam. It works well...

Depends on the internals, and quality of the work. It ran strong, so it couldn't be too messed up. I assume the heads were at least freshened up with the build. A bored, fresh, good running engine is worth at least $1,500 to me. Try and build one. This one is proven too. Stock cast pistons...

My heads have nail head valves, which eat up cc's over the tulip head factory style valve, and have been milled. Mine CC'd at either 73, or 74 CC's. The no valve notch helps the compression issue too. Another member here runs the .509 MP cam, and has around .080" valve to piston clearance...

If it is primarily a cruiser, keeping it around 230 degrees (@.050" valve lift), will still give a little rumble to the exhaust, but should still make good power into the 5,000ish rpm range. I did a 440 with the MP .484 hydraulic cam, and that has about 10 more degrees. It worked fine with...

If you run closed chamber heads, and stick to the 2.08/1.74" valve sizes, a stock forged replacement flat top can hit 10.0/1 comp pretty easily. These pistons don't have valve reliefs, and will limit you to right around .510" lift. With well ported heads, 10/1 a .500"+ cam, good intake and...

We don't really know what the end use of the car will be, so it is hard to give advice, There is a big difference between a highway cruiser or a drag race bruiser. A piston swap will be the best way to up your compression, and it's not that hard to get a 440 into the 9-9.5 comp range with...

Sorry I didn't respond earlier. I am running the ElCheapo Summit .465" hydraulic grind. I figure with the stock rockers crappy ratio, it might make .450" lift, yet my mph indicates around 400 HP. I intend to swap in the .528" MP solid which I have on the shelf. Another member has the exact...

9=month. 13=day. 72=year. If it is stock, it will be a lower compression 440, and should be a forged crank engine, which is good. If it is stock, it will have open chamber cylinder heads, probably 346's to take a guess. The heads will have a long part number cast under the valve covers. The last...

I'm betting this guess on compression is pretty close,and that is a lot of cam for a 383. It could be made to work, but I think it is too much to provide any real bottom end power. I have -.020" in the hole flat tops, (no valve reliefs), milled closed chamber heads with bigger valves, (eats...

I love solids, so no arguement there. My Mph at the track says my 383 is making a little over 400 HP, and it has a tiny cam, junk stock rocker gear, iron heads, and your intake and carb combo. Don't do anything incredibly stupid and you will hit your goal easily.

What pistons do you have? If they are stock style flat tops with no valve reliefs, I don't think you will fit a .540" cam. I have 516's with 2.08"/1.74" valves, and I don't have room for that big of a cam. My pistons sit at .020" in the hole. With the bigger valves, (nail head type), and a...

Get the compression up, (not easy with stock style pistons), small cam, dual plane intake. My 383 in a '67 Barracuda has a .465" lift cam, which is actually smaller than that due to the crappy ratios on the stock rockers, Edelbrock RPM intake, and 9.97/1 compression. It's only been to the...

It was a 9.2/1, .030" over 383, stock 906's, 3 angle valve job. M-1 intake, 950 HP Holley, 1-7/8" headers I believe. Stock rocker gear, and it broke 400 HP with the stock Magnum cam grind. A big hydraulic Comp stick made a bunch more power.