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Finished off the budget build with a set of Speedmaster (a.k.a. Procomp) 1.6 roller rockers. For the the price, they appear to be well worth it. Looking forward to the first few thousand miles to see how these perform and wear. Quality or JUNK? Installing Speedmaster 1.6 Rocker Arms on a Big...

I thought you did an amazing job with that 470 build you shared awhile back. In fact, that build is what inspired me to get the 400 in the first place .

The offset grind was about $300. The new cranks I found were near $1200. I also had the steel crank sitting on the shelf from a ‘68 383 that I ended up selling. Plus, like RAMM mentioned, I wanted to do something different by targeting big(ish) cubes with a small block feel. I regretted stroking...

That’s what I was expecting as well. My target was 0.022 in the hole.

After seeing it in the hole that much, my first thought was that the offset grind either wasn’t offset enough or not at all. I then measured the stroke with the short block still together. Came in right at 3.54. Idk maybe I was reading it wrong. It’s been a few months.

Made a mistake with my early measurements but, I was able to put together the top end in a way to mitigate some of it. I could’ve torn it back down to correct it however, I think the combo, as is, will work great in the project I’m leaning towards installing it in. BUDGET 426 Stroker Gets a...

I’m using off the shelf rods and pistons with my 426 combo.

Finally got the short block assembled! DIY Mopar 426 STROKER - FULL Short Block Assembly

I’m trying to score a set of 915 heads which, is difficult to do here in CA. Ideally, I’ve got about $800 max to throw at the heads. New valves and maybe even valve seats would be priority if budget allowed.

I’m using Icon pistons with a 1.48 compression height and Scat 6.70” rods. Turned the rod journals down to 2.2”

Not necessarily after fit. The lighter weight is a plus but, I’m mainly after engine characteristics. I LOVE the free spinning nature of the 340. I’m hoping to achieve the same characteristics with extra cubes for a bigger punch

With the core shift issues prevalent in the 400s, I really wanted to limit it to .03-ish. I did have the block sonic checked as I was curious how much I could go. Anymore than .04 over and I would’ve needed to sleeve cylinder #4 for a 500hp + build.

The $1600 includes the rings and bearings. I do still need to balance the crank which is gona cost me another $125. I’m aim for a 5k overall budget for the long block. Still not sure what I’m going to do for heads but, I’m leaning towards some 915s or worked 452s. I doubt I could squeeze in...

Same stroke. Reason for the 383 crank is to get a forged unit. When the rod journals are offset ground it increases the stroke from 3.38 to 3.545. Rod journals are now 2.2”

Chevy size, yup. I’ve gone big stroke in the past and it didn’t really meet expectations. Wanting to try something different.

So the rotating assembly has cost me $1600. It’s half the cost of a 440 source stroker kit. In addition to gaining 26 cubes, it also maintains a large over-square configuration. I’m hoping this adds to the high revving nature I’m planning/aiming for.

Can’t seem to find anything on the web about one of these. Any of you build one? Taking this opportunity to test out a long rod ratio. From my assessment, it seems like a reliable combo that would love to rev. What do you think? Doing this as a budget build for a YouTube challenge. -offset...

I totally agree that the 400/451 and even 400/470 combos are some of the best one can build. The “secret” is really just the cold weather block. After seeing this topic BLOW up on TikTok… it seems like 40-50% didn’t know about the mopar 400 and about 95% didn’t know about the CWB

It’s up to folks like us to keep it alive. The pressure to scrap the classics seems to only grow. Especially here in California. Youtube, Facebook, TikTok, etc… it seems like their algorithms ban people for the stupidest things. It’s a social power that I only see increasing in the future.

I wonder if there’s a ferd or chebby piston with a similar bore that could be used.

I learned a lot about the 400 from Andy on this forum. No I don’t get paid for the YouTube stuff. It’s a fun hobby that motivates me to keep working on the projects. Outside of the gearhead world, I’ve got a full time job, part-time job (Navy), and young family.

I can totally understand that. I’d want to do as much research as possible before spending the cash to import a block that was only offered overseas. I can honestly say that I’ve only ever seen two 361 big blocks in my lifetime. It would be pretty cool if there was a special version. Might...

To anyone who reads this thread in the future: It’s true that there is a 400BBM 230 casting CWB that has thicker mains. It’s also true that not all of them are good to use and NEED to be sonic checked. It is once again, true that all 400s make great strokers regardless of the casting number as...

I’ve been thinking about that since I hit 660 lol. I’m about to make a fake account to push it over

Why are all the boomers so triggered? Lol god forbid a young guy keep the classic mopar spirit alive and educate the rest of his generation.

Another keyboard warrior that didn’t watch the video and just assumed I was just some young ignorant millennial. 95% of the people I’ve spoken to have never heard of the cold weather block.

Written like another person that didn’t actually watch the video. I was talking about the cold weather block. Not many people know about it. If they have, they may not have actually seen what the mains looked like.

The 400 or the 400 cold weather block? Video was about the cold weather block

I mentioned the core shift issues in the video. Also mentioned that other 400 blocks would be great to use. It seems like no one on this thread actually watched the full video.

I’ve followed AndyF for years now. He’s got a really impressive 470. I state in the video that all the 400s are great to use. I just emphasized the 230 CWB for its obvious benefit. I even mentioned the need to sonic check it.