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I like that a lot and I am an AMC man. There is a Frankenrambler section on The Amc Forum for stuff like this, I think it would be appreciated.

Thanks for the update on the oil pan, I was hoping it was something new, it will be way too deep for most car applications, back to the drawing board for me. I'm going to have to either modify one or build one from scratch for what I'm trying to achieve

So did anybody come back from SEMA with pictures of the oil pan? The picture of it in the Mopar catalogue is garbage and I can't reference the part number anywhere else to know if it is just a stock piece from some other model or something special.

It would be good if they offered a solution to run the modern transmission as well.

I want to know more about the rear sump oil pan PN: 77072450 I need the dimensions as it might solve a problem for me.

I have one of those as well, they are very deep, so you will probably have to modify it for a car application:

Most retrofit guys aren't going to use the harness or transmission so they don't really add much in the way of value. You probably don't want to put any more money into it, but you could buy one of the harness and ECU combinations, get the thing running on a stand and sell it as a package ready...

With the Hotwire setup you need one of the Diablosport tuners to load the 6.1 tune into the 5.7 computer, not sure what the deal is with the 6.4 though. I think a couple of the sensors/connectors are different between the 5.7 and 6.1, pretty sure you can just use the 5.7 sensors in the 6.1 motor...

Spoke to somebody years ago with a supercharged 300C SRT8, he changed the factory 3.06 gears out for whatever was available for the Challenger at the time, something around 3.5 I think and he reckoned it was the best bang for buck he had got out of the car. Just remember that the SRT8 300 runs...

After all of that nice clearancing on the manifold flange, it turned out that I had to cut the flanges off to clear the strut rod brackets in the AMC body: It's tight, but looks like it might work, still a bit of finessing required on the engine position.

From what I know, they are from the 2006-2010 Jeep SRT8, others have said that they do not fit for swaps into A-body Mopars, but they may be a good option for some other engine swap options, mine is going into an AMC body.

This is a big piece of the puzzle, appreciate your efforts. PM sent.

Did manage to pick up a set of Jeep SRT8 factory headers for the 6.1, this is looking promising (I'm not putting the engine into a Mopar body): Little bit of clearencing required, which is also a good sign as we want these tucked nice and tight: Time for another test fit.

I did a bit of a comparison in another thread, the 2009+ 5.7 manifolds will probably not work as they are too wide, you might have luck with the 2009-2010 Jeep 5.7 manifolds. Your best bet probably is to buy a set of TTI's and then sell them down the track when you upgrade, you will take a hit...

I like the genuine Mopar long life coolant (yellow), have had these engines apart I modern Mopars after many miles and no sign of any corrosion, expensive stuff out here in Aussie, but well worth it where you have a mix of metals. Any good quality full synthetic 0W-40 oil should be fine, or you...

You can always on-sell the transmission, but they are pretty reliable so probably not a lot of demand. Harness and ECU are of limited value, Hotwire Auto will want to use an earlier ECU to get around a lot of the security features and most vendors want to sell you a complete harness and ECU...

Looks like they used the engine and transmission as well as most of the electronics to get them running. Seems that Diablosport was involved in the Gas Monkey effort: https://www.holley.com/blog/post/diablosport_helps_gas_monkey_build_winning_hellcat_swap_car_/

I also have one of the Jeep oil pans, but it would need to be modified extensively, total about 7.5", I can take other measurements if you are interested.

You might look at Milodon 31002, it's for truck applications so rear sump, total depth it 5.5" and I believe the front section is 2.875". http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mil-31002/overview/ I've been looking for something similar, but I'm in much the same boat, I need a rear sump oil pan...

First question is if you need a front, centre or rear sump location?

I reckon those distributor conversion kits used to cost about 2.5K, probably close to what it would cost to get the factory EFI and electronic ignition up and running and then you still had to get the carb and intake.

Old post for sure, from what I have read this was a more significant problem with the early motors, but if you do overheat them then the valve seats are very likely to drop out as you have two different metals with different expansion rates that are only press fitted together. Basically keep...

I would put the 6.1 injectors back in and see if it solves your problem.

I took 1/2" out of the PS bracket, somebody else machined 7/16" off the end, so that is somewhere in the ballpark of what it needs.

The bracket had a section cut out of it and was welded back together, you may be able to just machine the end down, but there is not a lot of metal there to machine. 1 PULLEY. Idler. 04627851AA $16.74 1 BRACKET. Idler Pulley. 04593918AA $46.85

You can cut down the factory idler from the later engines that run electric PS: Although I probably going to need to run PS now and I need to relocate the AC compressor.

71 mal

I hope so. Looks like I have to fabricate an oil pan, but with any luck the jeep hearers will work.

Back in the market for some Jeep 6.1 factory headers if anybody has a set? Tincup, Wade?

Don't forget to report back with some more pictures of the finished product too.