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Lol the computer already pulls the timing when I need it too.

Holley dual sync. Hall effect. With a Holley hyperspark box. As per instructions from Holley "It is not supposed to fluctuate from the programed static timing at high rpm". If so add to the inductive delay. I've added a hole bunch to the inductive delay with no change. Like I said in original...

Hey guys Tring to track down a timing problem 4000 rpm and up. 408 with Holley dual sync, hyperspark coil and CDI box. Distributor is installed and phased correctly. Timing at idle matches perfect. Now I've been trying to figure out a misfire/stumble that happens above 5800 rpm. I Thought...

Have you read my previous posts? I've done their recommended tests and posted the results. 11.7 volts at fitech and at racepak. 12 volts at alt stud. Bulkhead is bypassed ( alternator) Belt is not slipping. Will check over connections again tonight

Alright guys now I'm just getting frustrated. Lol. Took the car to a meet tonight. Weird the longer I drive the car the less voltage the alt puts out. Come to a stop and 11.7 volts at idle...... That's the same as my garbage originally alt. It actually charges less then my original.

Thanks man. I'll check it out when I get home!!!

Update: I ran a shorter run yesterday for the fitech and got it to read correctly. Now to figure out the whistle and light pulsing.

Ok did another test. Alt at 1000rpm is putting out 14.1-2 volts. Checked at battery and is the same. The gauge on my tbinjection(fitech) reads 13.6-8. Did ac check with no fans on and got the .1 at alt stud.

4 gauge from alt to starter then 1 guage from starter to battery. I'll double check connections. Zero problems cranking. I did the test as stated before and got .2-.1 @ alt stud. Hope I did the test right. I'll do the test with them off and report back Thank you

Ok guys another update. Did some tests and at alt I'm getting 13.8-14.3 volts. With dual fans on. At battery getting 12.5-13.2. (Batt in trunk) Now about the strobing headlights. When car is idling with fans off they strobe but when fans come on they don't....... Sorry for being all over the...

Thank you

I think you guys are right and this alternator is garbage. Just took the car for a long rip on a hot day. The volt guage was only showing 11.8 volts at idle. And get to a max of 12.8 driving. Ugghhhh supp to be a 130amp alt. My stock one did better.

Hey guys sorry I've been MIA been busy for me. Anyways got a new voltage regulator and my voltage stays right where it needs to be. 13.8-14.5. The odd time when car is hot and fans on at idle it gets down to 12.8 ..... I'm still getting the whistle at around 3000 rpm. Quite loud. And when I rev...

I know this is an old post but did you ever figure it out?

14.6-14.9volts the sounds is around 2500/3000 rpm Sometimes I get the odd 15.1 volts. I just picked up that mopar voltage regulator. I currently have a cheap silver one. I'll install it tonight and see if it changes anything

So I contacted tuffstuff about the problem and they said I must have a solid state regulator...??? This is the regulator I have.

Sorry I forgot to mention, I have 2 wires coming off the pos. on my alt. 1 wire is 10 gauge going inside the car. (Bypassing bulk head connector) to a 40 amp Circuit breaker. Then to fuse box ect. (No ampmeter). The other wire is 4 gauge from alt to starter. Then from starter 2 guage wire to...

I'm now going to run 4 gauge from alt. To starter. From starter to trunk is 2guage. Is it neccacery to have a circuit breaker with wire that thick?

Hey guys started car and whistle has gotten quieter. Sound goes away when electrical disconnected.

Lol I know. Sounded cool that's for sure but .....I'll dig deeper tommorow.

It's pretty damn tight It reminds me of the sound we would get back in the day when you would have an amp and a stereo and you could hear the rpm noise coming out of the speakers from the amplifier Sounds almost like a supercharger

Battery is charged. Spins pretty freely with belt off.

hey guys installed a new tuff stuff 130amp 3 wire. Took it out for first test drive and at around 2000rpm it sounds like I have a boosted engine lol. No idea what it could be. It's pretty loud... 100% coming from the alternator Any ideas?

Everything works as it should. Thanks for all the help guys. Went to starter problem solved

If I run 8guage wire from the alternator to the starter and install a circuit breaker how do I know what amp circuit breaker to use ?

Thnks

If I wanted to eliminate the amp meter does this look right. If so what amp fuse should be used.

There is a two gauge ground off the battery to the frame that I forgot to show.

Disregard post

I didn't wire the battery relocation or the disconnect switch that was done by my father and I'll have to doublecheck exactly how he did it