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Transparts Warehouse has different kits available. Prices are good and get all the parts you need.

Low band apply on the valve body.

Cope and A&A have thin plates allowing you to put 5 discs in your 4 disc drum.

If you know anyone with a borescope, you could run the camera up behind the convertor and look at the seal area. See if the fluid trail goes straight down the front of the pump.

You need to absolutely verify it is indeed coming from INSIDE the housing from behind the convertor. The o ring that seals the dipstick tube can slowly leak fluid, then running down the front. After a few days, the convertor drains down, overfilling the pan a touch. The seals and orings above...

Check the manual select shaft seal. It can run down the front of the case. And as Terror touched on, the kickdown rod runs through the manual select and there's a little seal there too.

With that being a camper van, it's probably on tbe heavier chassis. Meaning eight lug wheels and a Dana 60 rear. Im sure the RPM is up there, as most of those I've seen have a 4.10 gear.

Has trans been rebuilt? If so, has the rear output bearing been inspected/replaced?

Leave both out. Cut a piece of whatever, steel rid, aluminum rod, 1/2 inch brake line.. Whatever. Cut your preferred piece of material about 2 7/8 inch long and insert into accumulator. Then insert into appropriate orifice.

B&M comes to mind of companies that sell separator plates as part of a "shift kit". I tried one once waaay back in the day with terrible results.

Is there any engraving or numbers stamped on that separator plate? Or the top plate of the valve body? The factory separator plates were natural steel. That gold anodizeing is typically aftermarket.

The rod in the last photo is the park engagement rod. Turn the tail shaft a little and it will fall right out. As far as no accumulator, was this supposed to be a working trans? I can't hardly think it was.

Typically you shoot for about .012 per friction. Trans brake applications want .060 to .080.

The green plug on the PCM is what controls the trans, or so I've been told. The 5.7 swap would almost be easier. Not easy, just easier than the 5.9/360. Yes they can built to have power. Where's the budget end?

The 5.9 and 4.7 are two totally different animals. Front accessory drives are specific to each. OP says his og engine is a 4.7, let's not get confused on the situation.....

The trans will physically bolt to the older engine. Keep in mind, the 4.7 and 5.7 Hemi engines have a different crank flange offset. Finding a proper flexplate will be un-obtainium. The 4.7/5.7 engines also have 8 bolt crank flange.

Ask about the backlash then too. Pattern isn't"perfect" but acceptable.

New bearings require a little more preload. If you have an inch/pound torque wrench, what the turning torque is. Should be around 25 to 30, IIRC.

10-4. Thanks!!

Looked up and down on their website. Think I could find it? Nope. Thanks for posting. Do you know the I.D. of the bearing?

Was wondering if that is what was done. Would make sense considering bearing availability.

Does anyone know if a roller-ized governor support exists for the 904? maybe it isn't necessary for the mild performance stuff. Was just curious. At the parts house checking on Timken parts, they don't show a bearing that has the same shaft diameter as the 904. 904 shaft dia. at the support is...

You have a problem in the forward clutch pack. As in, there is a mechanical issue locking the clutch pack all the time. Does it seem to labor/want to move in Park also?

It's a crutch to eliminate the 1/2 shift lock up.

They're usually pretty robust. Kinda gently pry under the outer edge to get a "feel" for how plyable the rubber is. If that checks ok, I'll push straight under the outer lip to the center and pry it out. Usually pops right out.

Oh, heck! I forgot about the most important/likely deal. The sprag......

More info on trans please. Manual VB? If so, what gear were you in? What 2nd gear band? Rigid or flex? HD band strut or stock band strut? See where I'm headed with this? Drop the pan and have yourself a look see. Im sure you'll figure it out right away.

I'm with ya. I can't even begin to recall the absolute stupid **** I've done to a 727 and lived to tell about it......

Isn't band applied in MANUAL low? If It was left in DRIVE, then against low roller? Probably dinkin around in DRIVE and rolled the sprag.

:thumbsup: