Search results for query: *

You are having the engine running while checking? If not, do it.

Do it, total bolt in.

They work for big blocks too.

I ALWAYS weld them with the pinion angle set to 4-5 degrees down on leaf springs and 0-1 degree down on a 4 link.

Nice job!

I have one. So I used a 2 inch lower column tilting bearing. Also used the factory upper column support and welded a tab to the column, that was tapped for a button head bolt to keep the column from turning. The bolt goes through the factory column support. I’ll get pics in the morning if ya...

When I set mine up the left side was just a bit tighter than than the right, accidentally of course. I went for a drive and got to a stop, dumped the clutch and it the shot left. Adjusted the right more and did it again, went straight and just boiled the tires. Now this is on street tires...

I’ve got them on my 69’ Dart GT. They are really nice. Still trying to get them dialed in.

Just weld it on where it needs to be. Doesn’t matter if it’s for an A/B/E.

Hotchkiss makes the tabs.

You could run Assassin traction bars, they have multiple positions to get them dialed in. I use them on my 69’ Dart with a narrowed Dana 60 with QA1 adjustable shocks. Street ride is pretty nice.

That is a B/E k frame from QA1.

That makes sense.

I don’t see how changing the idler arm threw out the alignment unless the idler you changed out was bent.

Yup, they 1/2” fine thread.

Well, I sure do feel pretty damn stupid. I wasn’t checking lock to lock the right way. I was counting the revolutions of the steering wheel from center to either direction. So when it’s at full lock, I get 3.5 turns to the opposite side. Total brain fart on my end.

I just checked the steering and I was wrong.....it’s damn near 2 turns lock to lock. Suspension is newish (maybe 10 miles). I do need an alignment, but it’s not that far off that it would affect steering lock to lock. I can take a video of it and send it to someone to post.

Having the suspension unloaded should not make any difference. Just makes it easier to turn.

Then right now it’s 1.5 lock to lock.

1 complete revolution of the steering equals 1 turn? Not 1/2 a turn of the steering wheel? Cause if you do 1/2 turns, then you get 3.5 turns lock to lock.

I know, and it’s 1.5 turns. But I will check again tomorrow.

I’ll check again tomorrow. Here’s how I did it. A piece of blue painters tape on the top center of steering wheel. Now turn right or left till it stops turning, 1.5 turns each way. The steering wheel is a 14 inch billet half wrap with a FlamingRiver column.

Just got a new PST manual 16:1 box and it takes 1.5 turns lock to lock. Pitman arm and idler arm are stock replacements. I checked this with the front end off the ground. So where does this 3.5 turns lock to lock come from?

Cool. Let us know how you like them after you’ve gone a few miles.

Then get some double adjustable QA1’s, Vikings or Bilsteins.

You could get some cheap KYB’s for now and when you decide how the car will be used, get better shocks.

And get rid of those air shocks!

I didn’t take a before pic, but here’s where I bent it.

After re-reading this thread I went and looked at mine real close. My center link was higher on the drivers side by 1/2”. I’ve always had a problem with the TTI headers not fitting correctly, shimmed the drivers side engine mount by 3/8 and still had to dent the bottom 2 tubes to clear the...

Problem solved!