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220 is normal operating temp sooo..... I wouldn't worry about 205/210! ...it's funny how people panic when their engine hits 200 degrees! 230/240 start getting worried!

Take the belts off your engine and see how good the heat is.......

Pressure doesn't equal flow! See it often enough, it's my business!

You haven't seen many 4.7's then! Haha

Doesnt matter how hot the engine gets, if the coolant isn't being pumped through the heater core you'll have **** heat in the cabin.

You know they're bringing the straight 6 back right? Supposed to come out with the new design of the challenger

The cam in head was the improvement!

They're good engines, not the strongest...but just like everything else neglect and poor maintenance plays a major part in its reliability

I've done plenty of radiators on those for poor/no flow and causing overheating issues.... be aware, head gaskets on those do not like it when the engine temp gets too hot. You'll know it's too late when the exhaust looks like a locomotive blowing white smoke!

50/50 is still the standard, unless you're in a crazy climate of course ... then you add more coolant than water

this is in my 68 coronet. .030 over 383, mild cam , 9.44:1 comp. I am extremely happy with the performance, as for the fit...... it took a little trimming to make me happy. I am also using a factory fan shroud and fan clutch ... here's a write up i did on my install over at FBBO, its on the...

that Contradicts everything I've heard. Even radiator shops recommend less and bigger tubes !

I believe so, i ordered mine directly from them

Wow those are tiny ! I'm running an ecp 2 row 1" tube , runs nice and cool !

70 340 dart, stock radiator,fan with clutch and shroud. No problems here

Looks real good, might need to copy this since my factory radiator is having trouble cooling my rebuilt 383 now!

That might be the problem!

Some pics

Any reason why ?

Just installed mine this weekend, very easy with the cluster out! Was a bit tight going over the wiper pivots though!

Yes, factory upper Rad hos should be on the left / drivers side ....

heat is necessary, A/C .... between all the windows being open and the lower fresh air vents there is enough air flow through the cabin ! A/C is nice if you live in constant heat and humidity, I think you'll be fine without in Indiana

Not likely, trust me this truck blew my mind. And most veteran people in the shop too ! ... Was on a late '90s navigator .. Don't know how both heater hoses were hot, but believe me they were, and even with the inop water pump the vehicle operating temp never spiked up.

i know what you are saying, and it sounds good in theory .. i dont want to come off as a jerk, but i do this everyday and is my career. i said this comment out of personal experience, matter of fact i just worked on a truck that had no warm airflow from vents. both hoses at the core were hot as...

Just because your hoses are hot doesn't mean the water pump is working 100 %. Have you removed the inlet hose to the heater core with the engine running? .. Your hoses can still be hot with half the flow ...

Dude if you were getting 54degrees out of vents on a 100degree day that is plenty good ! 60 on a 80 day not so good ! Pressures do look good though. But didn't you state they called for 6-12 on the low side ? How fast is the compressor cycling ?

I was freaking out when I was stuck in heavy traffic on a 105 degree and my temp went up to 220 ! All was good once I started moving. I like it around 200, but I guess if I stay under 250ish on severe conditions its should be ok.

Exactly ! ... why didn't you use an OEM compressor ? The one that came on your motor ?

Wow, interesting ! Oops ! I was trying to remember without going back to the beginning !

That's weird ! ..... at 1lb / 8Oz (1.5lb ) freon system charge spec, do they have to be seriously overcharged to get this vibe, like in the 3lb area ?? .... Just curious ...