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That's correct, you need the NSS to match the trans not the car. Get a 3 wire connector and only use the center wire to the starter relay

Can he use a single wire switch on a later valve body/ rooster comb? I know you can't use a 3 wire switch on an early trans with swapping the rooster comb but can it go the other way?

Sounds like the NSS wire is grounded

I'd be interested in 2 of these also!

Any progress on this? I just changed the headlamps on my 70 dart for the 3rd time since installing a relay harness. When it happens both low beams go out at the same time. Charge voltage is good, a bit low at idle but mid 14's at cruising speed. Whats the absolute max voltage these sealed...

Not 100% accurate....I am a licensed Virginia state safety inspector, LED bulbs are only illegal when installed in a halogen housing(like most shmucks do when buying bulbs at pep boys). If you swap the entire lamp over to a DOT certified LED unit you're good to go. This is in Virginia, cannot...

Have you looked at delcity electrical ? I buy most of my stuff from them

I stand corrected, just looked at my car .. turn signals are up top, parking brake and high beams are at the bottom ! Oops !

Def turn signal ... yes you can start the car

Key on 12v also goes to the flashers, that's probably the easiest source to access !

alright, I know I've read something on this before but am coming up short on my searches. I have my cluster apart to have the Speedo and fuel gauge repaired. My car is not tach optioned and I want to put one in the factory spot. Besides ordering the repop factory style gauge, has anyone...

That's great, but the problem I have is with the age. How long will that one last until I'm back in the same situation now ?

The first picture, can on the left is what need ! Do you have any good replacements availiable ?On my oem distributor the arm is stamped 13L ....

Yes, that is the one I need . Frustrated? Try beyond frustrated ! I went through this 2yrs ago with the factory distributor, found the can only to find out it was obsolete. Bought this reman one, can failed and as life would have it.... it's the same can that I Needed 2yrs ago ! I will not...

It's a reman unit. Box is long gone. For a B engine ... here's a pic of the can....i cannot find one with the same arm, they either bend the other way or pin is on the other side

well ****, so much for that. The 2 advance cans that came in were wrong, the only other one is obsolete. Looks like I'm outta luck on this. Mechanical advance only for me ...... unless i look at different a distributor

I did just that last weekend, that's when I also took my cruising RPM's and vacuum readings. Car ran just fine at idle, still smooth on take off too. My total mechanical is set at 36 degrees at 3k. I think my initial was somewhere around 16 ... I'd have to double check that though !

3/32 Allen.... I don't see why I wouldn't be able to use it, my engine pulls decent vacuum. The part I'll need to play with is when to have it start advancing...

After our last discussion on this I went out to my coronet to play around with the advance, needless to say I found the diaphragm bad. I noticed my idle speed was a bit higher and fuel millage dropped off some a while back, but I never thought of looking at the advance can. Hopefully my new...

Always a great debate ..... ported guys always seem to swear manifold vacuum advance will cause poor off idle performance yet I don't experience any of that in both my cars, both smooth as can be ... one 383 auto and the other 340 4spd ..... both mild cams .... I wish I had a ported only dude...

Oh boy, be ready for the comments ... I use manifold ....

that's freaking funny, I was looking at that exact gauge earlier ! How difficult do you think it'll be to mount in the cluster housing ?

I didn't know the vacuum gauge was even a thing ... I might have to look for one of those instead of the tach !

I am getting ready to take the rallye cluster out of my dart for some gauge repairs. trip meter not working, fuel gauge took a crap. was seriously thinking of adding a tach in the factory hole. i saw the replacements from classic, i wonder how good the quality is vs an autometer unit ?

and after you get that replacement take it your local alternator shop ( hopefully you have one close ) and have them look it over and replace the shitty pieces with better ones .... that's what I do, haven't had a failure yet ...

yes you sure can, the only tough one is the dash harness but those are usually still in good shape. Engine harness is an easy swap ... $4k is ridiculous, maybe on a newer car which can be nightmares but these old ones are simple.

mopar orange box, less than 1yr old. Was giving the dart a once over the day before a 200 mile drive out of state. Was a hectic night ! Been running a hi-rev 7500 box, no troubles since.

What about the regulator? Are you still running the 1965 style regulator or did you swap it out to one to go with that dual field alt ?

Not the quickest fix, but def worth it. He'll make your factory radio work like a modern one ! Did the thumbwheel in my 70 swinger, I love it ! Radio Conversions - Ricks Radio Conversions

Igniter 1 uses factory coil and ballast, 2 uses 12v coil and deletes ballast. I'm running ignitor 2 on my 68 coronet.