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Hot tanking was the best way to go 20 or so years ago, now it's not nearly as good because of the environmental solvent restrictions imposed on the use of good working stuff. It might be better now to do it the DIY methods and then burn out the remaining seam grease/oil. After I had mine hot...

This is the greatest home garage removal technique I've ever seen.

That’s some great info right there. Thanks blu.

My k is from a 72 duster so yes the bar design is different but the ends if I remember correctly are the same stock design. The aftermarkets do definitely have differences.

Damn Bryan....that’s def not what I envisioned. I think your right. It doesn’t look like the bar extends far enough to use the shock bolt. Yea I agree my thought process def wouldn’t work without throwing the geometry off. I use a firm feel bar and my lca has the stock link mount so made it a...

https://p-s-t.com/pdf/127886

Not so sure about drilling your lca to locate the L tab. I had an aftermarket sway bar on my car for a while before upgrades. The L tab was located at the shock mount bolt. Pretty sure pst doesn’t want you drilling your lca but you can easily reach out @PST . Well I just read the directions...

I don’t know much about most of the mopar world but I do know my stock 67 floor shift power steering car column had a plastic insert with a lower ball bearing and spring with a collar held in place with a set screw. Was all original when I rebuilt my column.

I found the c clip holding the upper bearing had popped off once before. Not sure if this could be your problem but stranger things have happened.

This is a definite possibility too. If the k is rounded out bad enough it could do what you describe.

It’s the clunking noise that sounds like the dead giveaway. if everything else is brand new and the alignment is close that kind of narrows it down. Perhaps the driver side brake isn’t working at all could be a reason but my best guess is the lca bushing. You know what Dick at FirmFeel says...

Can you rotate the bolts at all. If so rotate and spray penetrating oil then try backing them out using a ratchet wrench. Once they break free they should move out. Good luck.

Are you replacing the pitman arm? If so and you plan to pull it any way it’s doable that way but if it were me I’d leave it and pull it last. You’ll need a pitman arm puller to get it off the box. If you don’t need to replace it I’d leave it in place.

Short answer is yes! Good luck.

72bluNblu has given great info here. I have the tubular original welded mopar performance connectors which have been in the car for over 30 years. Plenty of track passes and tire smoke. They’ll be fine for your application.

VintageRacer...Just to confirm what 67Dart273 said...you can re-use your original 67 pitman, center link and idler arm. If you're going with the firm feel large ball joint (73-76) upper control arms and the Dr. Diff 73-76 brake upgrade & spindles you'll be good. You'll need the large lower ball...

Yes.....

See if this thread helps any. The stud or rod should be in the center of the switch when the wheel is installed. Turn Signal Will Not Cancel In One Direction

The cancelling cam...although it’s really a ring.

Not sure if I understand the question. The trip rod is integral to the steering wheel. The steering wheel only orients one way on the steering shaft splines due to the wide land on the wheel and shaft. It only slides on the shaft one way....unless someone has ground or filed the land to be able...

I’m using PST 1.03” bars and am very happy with them. Good luck. Follow the FSM and follow the professors guidance and you’ll be good.

It’s possible that the indexing hole is down inside the coupling if the shaft is bottomed out...due to the shaft pins possibly being broken allowing the inner shaft to slide down inside the coupling. I don’t believe it to be a big deal and mine has broken pins as well. I changed out my coupling...

The collar should be up against the outer column bottom holding the spring and lower bearing in place as shown in the manual. I bet the indexing hole’s under the collar.

Hi chuck and welcome aboard. Was the bottom bearing toast? I’m guessing it probably was. If it was this could be the result but it’s easily straightened and in my humble opinion definitely not a big deal. Rebuild that sucker and carry on.

I used a high solids paint from omega industrial. That stuffs like iron in a spray can.

Nice work mat....very outside the box for us average Joe’s

How I swapped my K frame last week This is what I did to swap k’s leaving the motor in place. Hope it helps.

Niiiice. Thanks Kern.

You don’t say exactly where it’s leaking from or if it still steers well so there’s a lot of assumptions that can be made. If it’s leaking from the sector and or pitman shaft those seals aren’t all that hard to replace. If it’s leaking from the power steering hose connections those O rings are...