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Silicone works, but I like to use a couple of wraps of teflon tape. Just a few wraps, that way you dont get silicone all over your hands and steering wheel.

Get a step drill or uni-bit as they are called. I have all kinds of sizes and find them easier to keep track of instead of having a bunch of hole saws and arbors and such layin around. don't spend the $$$ for a good one, just get the 3 pack assorted diameter one from HD or Lo's for ~$20

depends on how much machine work you need. Just a refresh with new mains cam and goodies would probably set you back 2-5 hundred bucks. And you cant win the engine cause my buddy swears he's gonna win it

If they're cheap and are known to be good run em. If you have enough exhaust to dump the spent gas. More HP= :))))))))))

I always had 2 ballast resistors and 2 ECU screwed to the firewall in my Valiant as a teen.... always went when wet Then again so did my girlfriend at the time.................. what was her name?

did you put a gauge on the system? 7 should be the normal reading for a street car. 9 would be pushing it. Don't want to wash down those rings

if you have a high gpm fuel pump you may want one with a return on it to eliminate deadheading (i.e excessive noise). I had some problems and had to get one that had a return port. Still have the old one if you're interested...

I haven't used Doug's, but with TTI you can practically throw them into the engine bay and they're in. They even have a swing out tube to go around the steering box... easy install

a synthetic oil like Torco would be a good choice. Synthetic oil won't break down as quickly as regular oil does plus a 10-30 synth will stream like a 5-30 regular oil. Of course synth oil is 2x what reg oil is so you'd have to use your judgment there. What I do is run Torco 10-30 and...

isn't it supposed to be 34-36* tdc? And I also think it's checked with the vacuum advance line disconnected and plugged from the dizzy. I might be wrong but I think 10* is too early

If you look at Moparmuscle's engine challenge you can easily get 450 out of a stroked small block on a budget

6 sometimes

I got the low profile Milodon plan, hits the K member under torque so I had to notch it out a bit (the K member, not the oil pan!!!).

check for debris in the needle valve.

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me

I dont know about the hood clearance issues ( of course you could get a drop base air cleaner) but the rpm make its HP in the upper rpm range. It supposedly will give a cooler intake charge and increase tq\hp but unless you have a 4-speed setup or a higher stall speed converter, I would say...

If you look in the tech archive there is a good peice on adjusting lash. Ma Mopar tells us to adjust lash while the engine is running which is not a good time trying to keep an allen wrench and a 1\2" box wrench on the adjuster with oil gushing all over the place.

Yeah small filter. It's no big deal to spin it in the car as long as there's no oil in 'er. I put mine on snug and rotated it till it looked right. the thing is if you rotate it clockwise, which you may have to, you'll have to put a rag or cardboard on your headers to avoid a MESSY oil cange...

schumacher says the're working on a better a-body mount, I got the one from them with the thru bolt.

I know my smallblock uses the standard 1 1/4" socket if that helps. I got mine at the home depot for $7.99

My 340 uses the 7/8" Mounts. The rubber in between is 1/2" and the stud goes all the way thru. I think I got them from Mancini (and they're probably Schumacher brand) for $12.

:supz: I'd get him down some. you're gonna need alot more stuff than you think you need, like schumacher mounts, throttle cables, radiator etc. that just wont work going fom the \6 to a small block. I'd try and get a dyno sheet from him or take it to a machine shop that has one, and let them...

I wont be too far behind ya I should get mine in sometime next weekend; because it did snow last nite. We dyno'd my engine and the guy there told me not to run synthetic for 1,000 miles.

Yeah, I went down today and made sure that I was on the front burner. Luckily I have everything documented *(like the date I dropped the block off, the day we went over the head work)* and at first he thought I was overexaggerating...until he pulled my clipboard. Then it was all apologies.

Yeah, it's been 8 months. I get the picture he has his faves (dirt track racing is big around here) and I just got put on the back burner. Had I known it would take this long I would have taken it up to Ray Barton. I'm just tired of the smoke being blown up my tailpipe.

I dropped my engine off a while ago at a local speed shop. How long is a reasonable time to wait before the work gets completed? I stopped by the other day and after quite a few months the block is line honed , rotating ***'y balanced, etc... but the heads haven't been machined nor has...

I saw some cermatec headers in Jeg's cataloge... Has any tries to install these in theier ride? I am concerned about the low hanging driver's side on som many of our a bodys. I am leaning towards the TTI tho Jason