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Have you already got a 360?

Yeah, we're not running out anytime soon. I keep a supply for like two or three months. My wife uses paper like she owns the whole daymn forest.

Yeah so that makes me wonder which one was the lie, or the deception as the case may be.

In about 71/72, I weighed my 70 Swinger 340/4speed at the track, with me in it, it was 3330. I was 140. so 3190 to the Dart with a lil less than half a tank of gas, and the steel slapper bars. She had P/S, PDB, no radio but did have an 8-track and 4 speakers. Yes the jack was still in the...

I had a low-mileage one in 78, and I concur; there was nothing turdy about the 74 Dart Sport 360/4-speed/3.55s. I think tho, that they were lighter than they looked. I sold that car in 80 right after my first baby was born, used the money to buy a 76 Volare station Wagon. 318 with air conditioning.

The 74 360 4bbl was rated nearly Identical to the 73 340. except of course the 360 torque-peaked earlier. Those two engines had all the same parts bolted on to them, making the only significant differences, being their strokes. Furthermore, the only significant differences of the Net engines...

Yur kidding right! The 74-360 is NET the 273 is gross

please forgive me but I nearly pissed myself laughing when I saw the pic. what brand are those?

That is likely a tuning issue. My guess is that she is running too much Idle-timing, and if you close the Idle speed-screw, she wants to hesitate at take off. The cure for both is to run less Idle-Timing. If you brought that car to me, I can make it idle at 550rpm, in gear and pulling itself...

Um no, the pushrod length has nothing to do with the nuts backing off. The only thing that can cause the nuts to back off is that they, the adjusters, or even the arms, are no good. But the thing that causes ticking on rockers in the which the nuts are NOT backing off, is another matter. You...

Dear Dan; this thread has officially gone to the dogs, without any real good information whatsoever. Everybody has an opinion with no real consensus, and they all want to spend your life's savings. Your question was simple, but the thread has ended in a complicated chitfight. The truth is...

My 1121s @11.3 Scr, were almost into the valley by the end of the first summer. IMO the 1121s need a rougher deck finish to hang on to them harder. I caught the slide on the First of 6 teardowns. and that was with ARP Bolts, torqued to 105. I swapped to the bulletproof 039 FelPros, and ran...

I'm gonna have to respectfully disagree with the first sentence and with the last sentence. Here's my experience, with that so-called, "garbage 5/64 ring-pack" As to power; My 367 has gone 93 in Eighth, at 3457 pounds, at 900 ft elevation, which the Wallace estimates is 430 hp. As to heat: and...

I used those KB107s in my 367. I used the KB ring-gap spec. I had overheat issues that I could not solve. The engine would also lock up every time I shut it off, for 10 to 15 minutes. I took the engine apart and opened up the gaps to the next spec, and ran the hone thru her a couple of passes...

OK man, if you say so ...................

No, no, no; that's all messed up! Firstly the alternator pulley is on backwards, Secondly your Waterpump is wrong for a 67, that pulley will never work, Thirdly the alternator appears to be spaced too far forward. and Fourthly, that Saginaw has an exceptionally long nose on it. I can't recall...

For sure the alternator belt takes a trip around the top of the waterpump, then down and around the LA damper, them back up to the alternator. If you ordered belts for a 67, the book assumes you have 67 pulleys. There was no 360 that year, so you should have received belts for a 273, and that...

I use 10W30 since 2004. My only gauges are what came on the factory rally dash. I don't have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge, so I have nothing to worry about. Just Like I don't have an aftermarket temp. gauge, so again no worries. Without worries, I can just driiiive it, lol. well, to be...

You can put your own TDC mark on the balancer or the cover, anywhere that is convenient, which makes matching any of these parts a non issue. You can even use the 273 style removable timing tab, if it fits. Then you can either use a dial-back lite, or install a timing tape, or just mark off...

Not one hp more until the rpm gets up to where the two-barrel got to be too small, say 3000 rpm. from there to around 4000/4200 maybe 15 hp. So lets say about 15/(1100/100)= ~1.36 hp per 100 rpm, if you jet it right. Let's say you free up the exhaust and get 20hp, which is then 1.8hp per 100rpm...

I have one for my car on standby, for same reason. As much as those in charge deceive us, occasionally they throw in something that sortof sounds plausible. So then, if my fancy Direct-Injected, DOHC, twin phasered SFI hotrod Orlando won't start after one of them EMPs goes thru the land, well...

My Opinion; My non-coated TTIs went through 5>6 years as a 4-seasons DD, and a couple more summers besides, until the driver's side rusted thru in the merge. I took it down, brazed it up and it went another bunch of years. The P-side went a couple of summers further than the Driver's side, and...

If you have a "bit of a cam" in that 360, I highly recommend to NOT run a flexfan, on account of, I have not had any good experiences with those. Every time I use one of those, I have cooling issues. Your results may vary. If you decide to run one; NEVER rev the engine up while your body is in...

You'll get about 1.8 psi for each degree of Cam advance. and/or same 1.8psi per an increase of 1/10 of a compression point. Swapping from 039s to 028s at same 4.18 bore is worth about 3/10s compression ratio, and 7psi. A custom 020 gasket with a 4.07 hole, will get you 4.5cc, less than the...

Dan asked; "Would this make for a fun car to enjoy? Remember, I'm just sitting here thinking" Answer yes it would but; >You have included too many variables, and > a lotta stuff you listed, is not needed for your stated purpose and; > it seems like, you're losing sight of the project. Yes torque...

Best bang for the buck is a higher stall convertor. I like the 2800. It gives a nice jump off the line with those 3.23s. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Do this FIRST and you will never regret it. Then install a semi-auto shift kit, and maybe your teener...

No, My comparison was to the 48* stocker. Well that's the thing, the V/P at 116 is already at lawnmower status. 51* "only" drops it to 112. Now pump the 8/1 engine up to 10/1 and run the stock cam at 48*Ica, and the pressure goes to 186psi and V/P to 155, now you got a chitload of bottom end...

Wait; 30>50hp from nothing but a cam-change of ; 10* extra intake duration, and 19* additional overlap, that is only meaningful with headers and a free-flowing dual exhaust? I'm just not seeing it unless the rate of lift goes off the chart, or unless you are including the 4bbl, the headers...

They would have to be either down, dished, or some combination, and IIRC, they were at least dished. and none of the five early ones that I have were much out of the holes, at least not nearly .045..... In other words, they may not have been 10.5 engines. More like 10.0 with the thin steel...

Furthermore The factory put these together with 020 steel shim gaskets, with a bore hole suitable for a 318. I can't say exactly how many ccs those were, but I would think that ~4ccs would not be far off. The thinnest I find now are 028s and based of a 340 hole, making them about 6.8cc. The...