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The Regulator supply wire should be blue, same supply as the blue out of the bulkhead. In your drawing, it is labeled "green". But the green on an isolated field alternator goes back to the regulator, which controls the field strength. My guess is that if the regulator is actually hooked up...

As for the crossover; Where you set it will depend on at what frequency your main speakers quit making base. You will need some material with deep base content; not kick-drums. I like blues so I'm always after hearing the stand-up base. Drums have a high attack speed and your brain will choke...

Yeah probably what ^^^ said

By this time, I wonder if the oil has all been washed off the cylinder walls , and the compression is really weak. If you have been pumping the gas pedal, guess where the gas has been going. Ima thinking it would be a good idea to put some oil back into the cylinders.

Like Mattax said. Just to add. The 5-pin ECU used to require it's own power supply with an External Ballast resistor. The 4-pin ECU, has the power-supply inside the case, so it no longer requires it's own ballast . The 4-pin ECU, will run just fine using 5-pin wiring. The extra power-supply is...

Just so you know; >Both the coil and the ECU will run on battery voltage. >With the Coil-wire yanked out of the cap and near-grounded; in a normal system, the ECU will send one spark, every time you shut the ignition switch off; this assumes the coil is dry on the business end. >the pick-up...

To no one in particular, but to everyone hating modern gas; I just gotta say ; You should try Canadian 87E10, which works fantastic in my 11/1, alloy-headed, 367. No troubles whatsoever. not even cruising 65=2240 rpm in overdrive, with the throttles nearly closed. IMO if you get carbon on the...

Just curious; what are we working on? What Carb? Automatic choke? Did you ever have a carb fire? Is it; Popping during cranking? and ALSO, popping during warm up? But Ok after fully warmed up? Have you tested the compression yet? How big is your cam? and does it have solid lifters? You got the...

Here is the easy test; Near-ground the coil's hi-voltage output wire, anywhere from .25 >.5 inch. Send battery voltage to the Coil +. Run a jumper wire back towards a known to be good, ground. Watching the Hi-voltage wire, slap the jumper to ground and get it off as fast as you can. You should...

Try the headlights and/or the horn. They are on different circuits, not off the ignition switch. If they work, that almost eliminates the battery connections. Then try the heater, which does come thru the Ignition switch. If it blows, this points to the NSS, so like said, try neutral, and with...

And another thing about the factory ignition; IF it does breakdown, 500 miles from home, parts are only as far away as the nearest period mopar. If you go to a Mopar car-show, chances are that every second car in the show has a spare of whatever you didn't bring. The only part I carry a spare of...

Great Idea, I never thought of that! But I have multiple other theft deterrent measures. Being a Manual trans car, theft is as easy as moving it down the road and putting it on a trailer, so, I didn't go overboard. Anybody can Hot-Wire one of these old cars with nothing more than a jumper-wire...

Ok that is a Second generation 4-pin ECU, and the ballast is for the coil. It works in the exact same wiring harness, so long as the ballast connector has not been modified. >To test the ballast; simply bypass it with a straight battery voltage to the coil +; It will handle this for testing...

"Mopar original stuff" This is a very fine system, generally trouble free. In it's first iteration, this was a dual ballast system. The one side reduced the power to the ECU, and the other side reduced the power to the coil. If either side fails, the sparks go away. However, the power to the...

I highly recommend the big yellow square-top Accell Super coil. Mine operates from an easy running rpm of 500 to 7500 without a hick-up, and car has gone 93 mph in the Eighth with it. And has been on the car since 2002 at least. If I pull the coilwire out during cranking, it looks like I could...

My take on Over-reving; not bashing Lelo; IMO; on the street, with a typical SBM street-combo, over-reving should not be a thing The reasons being; With 3.55s and a 4-speed, my Barracuda can hit 85 mph @7200, in Second gear, which is well into "lose-your-license" territory, so it seldom goes...

I read in Smokey Yunichs book something along those same lines. As I recall, he was big on Amps. While the CDI systems have an excellent response time, they don't make much for amps. Which is why they went to Multi-Striking. The thing is as rpm goes up, there is no longer time for...

We need some definitions first.

Did you remember to ground the radiator bulkhead? From the factory there is a jumper wire from just around the driver's side headlamp area that has to electrically return to the battery Negative. Also, the steering column has to similarly be grounded. And there is another jumper behind the...

The tach has it's own option code, N85 IIRC. The vacuum gauge also has it's own code. I have never seen a tach-delete code. Since 1970, I've almost always had 4-speed rally-dash car and every one had a code N85 tach. However, the tach is in the wrong spot, is too small, and is usually if not...

Yes you are getting the concept; it just needs to fine tined and the Power-Timing limited to less than self-destruction .

What I did was install a Normally-Open relay into the Isolated Field wire charge circuit. As soon as I pull the handle, the relay de-powers and opens the field circuit, and the alternator powers down. That circuit does not draw much so I just used a small relay. I also run my Ignition off a...

If you want to clean stuff up, start with eliminating all those hose clamps and running hard lines. I mean the pressure line to the fuel bowl is just begging to make trouble.

As to redundancy, in my experience, Mopar alternators seldom have trouble; Just keep some spare brushes in the Glovebox. If anything gives trouble on them it's the bearings; Just put new ones in every 15 years or so......... lol. But regulators, now that's a nuther story.

No pics, sorry, I have no camera. But if you can figure out what you did there, then drilling the driveshaft is nothing lol. I had thought of doing what you did, but didn't think it would survive long, so instead I just welded up a couple of cams, one each of 20*, and 22*, and I had a few...

Ok Robert, I just gotta know what yur inventing this time! lol. I'm a thinking that you did what I did, drilled a hole on the end of the driveshaft and eliminated that stinking horseshoe clip?

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I agree with Dell as to the Fusible link or it's circuitry,

I have never had any success with plumbing the PCV to the Secondary side. and that PCV hose has to be rated for vacuum, else it will get sucked flat when the vacuum rises. Fuel-line will NOT cut it. Transmission line maybe. But your jobber should have a thick-walled hose just for that. Plumbing...

OP said he can't get the idle any slower without shutting off the transfers, Hello! Op, pay attention to Mattax; Shutting off the transfers will only make big trouble. If you have proved that the only air that the engine is getting, is coming in past the primary throttle blades and that the...

I heard that too, but IDK