My buddy had one in 69 dart with a 10:1 440, stock rebuild 906 heads, rpm intake, 3.23 gears, automatic, tti headers, 750 Holley dp, stock 14 inch rims and tires, ran 12.20s @ 116/117
around here they(the 3 of the 14 shops I contacted that would even take the work) all wanted between $600-800 to turn a 440 crank to fit a 383 block, that was without any hardening or balancing included, and they were even reluctant to say they would do it because they wanted me to just buy an...
well im gonna have cast iron heads as was going to paint them the same color, same as the intake and pan. Ive always painted the intakes aluminum but thought id try something different
I did, just took the tape off to install the oil pump :burnout: and I really don't know if I like it, my title wasn't sarcasm, I really don't know if im sold on it lol
what say you? And yes, this is literally a backyard build so don't make fun! The timing chain cover and oil pan are black wrinkle to match the valve covers going on.
i read an article where the ran hypers everywhere from .0015 up to .010 piston to wall clearance and noticed no issues except for a little piston slap as they went up in clearance. you could always try it and let us know the results
im not saying the 440source kits aren't worth it but my buddy did just buy a 440 source kit for a low deck 451 build and every rod was .007 out of round and needed to be resized and there was enough taper on the crank to require some work (don't remember the number off hand and don't want to...
Pm me, i have some stock rods that are in the scrap pile i can send you a cap from, and as stated you will need to have it resized, $12 around here, hope that doesnt blow your budget lol
if you are really worried about getting crap heads (rightfully so given your location), then buy them from an online machine shop that examines and preps them for you. Usually the extra service does not cost much more and you know you are getting a good piece, not something that got passed the...
My thinking here is that if the inner fenders create a unified structure through connecting everything, these bars could basically do the same thing right? I mean if the hole front end is tied together, its much harder to flex, correct? Youve probably figured out by now Im no suspension expert.
So lets keep beating this horse, haha. Anyways, have you guys see the bars for the mustang/ford guys that ties the shock towers together? They go over the motor and bolt to the shock tower the back to the firewall so they make a triangle tie out of the front suspension. What would you think...
Well here's what happened with the car. It came with the fenderwells, they werent my choice, they came on the car. A previous owner (I found out this cars been like a cheap slut around my neighborhood and been with about 8 guys in 2 years) cut the fenderwells and drilled huge holes all over...
This is a good point. Although I could see the inner fenders tying into the body offering some extra support. But I like to hear real world tests of running like this. This is a street/strip that I presume will run 11.50's or so. And for those curious why I want to cut them out, read the...
I removed them because they looked like swiss cheese and were all hacked up from the previous owner. I did this a couple years ago and did not know that I needed to brace them and I just recently started working on the car again and this topic came up. I was considering putting a cage in but...
What would you think about running a u-shaped brace bolted to the frame? Would I run into the same issues with bending the frame?
Here's a illustration(lame as it may be) but I think you get the idea. Bend some tubing up and over the shock tower and bolt it to the frame on each side.
So I read over on Moparts.com that when you remove the inner fenders that you must brace the shock towers? I have a 76 duster, original /6 car, now with a 440. While the motor is out, I decided to finish cutting out the fenders. So is it necessary to brace the shock towers? Whats some of...