Search results for query: *

No. The AC is a load. Just like driving up hill. I think you have a voltage drop causing the readin to change.

^^^^^^This cant be repeated enough...^^^^ Most folls just dont understand hiw the cooling system works. Some times a higher temp thermostat will lower operating temp beacuse the water gets to sit in the radiator but once that sucker is open, its open unless you got a great big fan...... :)...

My bad, fat fingered it.

In my opinion, it's not the tune. Pull the shroud. Did that work? If no put it back and pull the thermostat. If that dont work what does your coolant look like? Do you have the rubber strip on the core support? I went through a lot to keep my hi po small block cool.

they not friends. Your plug pics are way to far away. To tell. Timing is read on the part over the electrode. (Ground strap) Fat at idle is you plugs are black as night on the threads. Cruze is the porclen part everyone reads. WOT is down at the base and you need a magnifying glass or cut...

I dont run a thermostat, I use a restrictor plate. Its always open all the time. No shroud, my fan eletric fan is tight to the radiator but I use one 15 inch fan. My shroud only made things worse. I was over heating on the freeway but fine at idle. My shroud was dead heading air.

Yes. It smells for a while. Drive on the highway at speed and let her get warm while the air blows all the old coolant out of the cracks and crevices. Just drive her.

I will say my fancy shroud went to the scrap bin. Now my fan is on aluminum straps and no more heat issues. It was dead heading air.

Dead horse. Paint if you want. I enjoy the look of raw aluminum and I think its better for cooling. I think the difference is so minimal that it dont make any difference. If painting an expensive aluminum radiator made it cool better the company's would be painting them.

Pulled the rad and removed the shroud. Now it's fine on the freeway but it can no longer idle indefinitely. That just tells me I need a better shroud design or better fans (fan). Also I no longer have any breaklights, not related I know but annoying just the same... Thanks for the help.

Spring in lower radiator hose. And with the plate in the T stat location I can check water flow at any RPM.

A thermostat ONLY heats the water and it dam sure can fail. I dont care how long it takes to warm up the water, I only care about keeping the water at the temp I want it at. 190-210 degrees.

This way I never have to worry about a bad T stat. Water is moving. I can keep water in the radiator, run the fan and then bump the engine with ignition off or just turn on the water pump and move hot water out of the block into the radiator and start cooling water again.

Because race car.... We dont run T stats on the drag cars. That way we can cool them off easy with just the fan running. Cycle the water pump or bump the starter over, move water and continue cooling.

I do have flappers to let air out of the shroud at speed. But yeah I'm gonna try with out it. That easy just pull radiator, drill out 35 40 rivets with out hitting the rad, build a new fan mount and test... easy peasy.... :)

Yeah so pull the shroud right? That's a major pain in the ***. It riveted to the radiator. But I think you guys are on to something.

Best pic I have of the fan and shroud right now.

The fan is pulling I can feel it out the back and it would over heat in traffic it that was wrong. I like the idea of the fan not keeping up at freeway speed. I'm running about 2500 rpm at 45 50 MPH. no speedometer, yes race car.. This is definitely an engine that's pushing the limits of...

Lol, no No viper involved today... Just wanted to take my lady for a cruze.

The shroud is sealed very well. I'm about to take it off and see what happens.

71 dart, new 360 New griffen cross flow radiator. Restrictor plate in T stat housing. Large eletric puller fan and shroud. All new hoses. The car is fine around town, 180-190 but get on the freeway and the temp just cimbs... This is so backwards from all other cars I've ever owned I'm not...

We cut the nipples off radiators ALL THE TIME and TIG weld them where we want them. Any good welder should be able to do it for ya.... Much better than a bunch of funky bends...

Took the shroud off, punched some holes and added some rubber flappers. I had to work on a customer engine so no road test yet. I'll road test in the AM. And report back.

Dosen't the heater bypass just pump back below the thermostat? I can't remember if it's an open passage or goes to the head?

It's a big Harwood scoop.

Hummm... never thought about that. I just figured it all blew out the wheel opening or out the back of the car? I have been thinking of making a plate and sealing the carb to the hole in the hood but I really thought all the fresh air from the scoop was helping..

Those are some good points AJ. I'll plug the heater bypass and see what that does. I have a very large hole in the hood and no inner fenders, so under hood air temp should be less of a factor. My temp is fairly stable now at 190 around town but it gets hot on the HWY. I think it's dead...

I do have copper sheets, now that you mention it, that would look bad *** and transfer heat.... :)

The science behind this dose interest me but in reality it's a moot point. The shroud dosen't even get hot. So it's not radiating heat no matter what paint I put on it.

Hummm. I would think the paint would act like a barrier and slow the heat transfer? I know bare aluminum transfers heat like crazy because when I cut it it's hot as hell all the way at the other end of the 4x10 sheet...