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I've got approximately 3¾ lock to lock. Blind spline on box, coupler and steering wheel all line up. I never noticed until I removed the old engine, the center link isn't perpendicular to the frame. Looks like pitman arm is too short, or the idler is too long. Or maybe this is normal? It's not...

Right now I have a '73 k-frame with manual '68 box, pitmam arm, center link and idler. Works fine with big block. I've noticed it turns tighter one direction than the other. Could it be the wrong pitmam arm? I've compared it with several I've got laying around (power and manual) and see no...

I'm sure this has been covered a million times, but I'll ask again. When installing the '73 up k-frame w/spool mounts in a '67-'69 a-body, do you use the '73 Pittman arm, idler arm and center link? Small (1.11" ) manual box. Thanks

I have to agree with Jim, without the correct oil pan, tweeking the idler is about the only option PO had. Once that idler in bent enough to clear the oil pan, the steering geometry is wacked. The pan you need has a scalloped area right behind the deep sump portion on passenger side. Look at...

I can't really tell from your pictures, but a big block in a '69 requires the #187 or #699 oil pan.

I've got the springs set at the 1" lower and 1" back setting. I gave Calvert the weight, ride height and told them I wanted to move the rear-end back 1". They supplied the mono springs that I needed.

That's with a 325-50-15 MT Drag radial. The relocation boxes I made have adjustments for, stock, stock 1" lower and 1" lower and 1" back. A little close to the Calvert shocks but clear without any rubbing.

I used the Calvert mono leaf along with their trac bars. When I did the spring relocation I moved the rear end back 1" to center the wheels in the openings.

Looks fine. If you intend on using original seats, door arm rest, ect leave the main hoop where it is. If you bend the hoop out any more you can forget arm rest and inside door handles.

Numbers to the rear.

Thanks for the info. I'd like to keep everything USA. I'll ask PST about that when I call them. Hotchkiss is very nice stuff. Used them before. However,this is going to be more of a straight line attack than cornering. Who carries Spicer?

It's time to start rebuilding the front end on my '68 Dart. Not many Mopars in the wrecking yards around here, so it looks like I'll be buying all new parts. Can anyone comment on PST's polygraphite front end kits? Also, how about their disc brake kits? I noticed SSBC was about $100.00 less. But...

Sliders are typically used on "round n round" cars. I'd just use the Caltracts with poly rear bushed hangers.

I can run a tire with a 13 1/2" section width without cutting the fender lip. If you don't do a mini tub, then subtract at least 3" from that.

You can relocate the springs under the frame using Mopar/Mancini or building your own brackets without doing a mini tub. You could probably use a tire 1 1/2"- 2" wider. Be sure and check section width, not just tread width when looking for tires.

I've got them packaged and ready to send back. $150 can go towards new springs. If you want them at that price, let me know?

Burntorange70, I took part of your suggestion on cutting the rear frame out. I didn't like the way the sliders were looking and considering the fact that I have to drive on gravel roads to and from my house, I thought they might not be the best overall solution. After measuring the angle of the...

I"m not sure what the difference is between Speedway and Jegs sliders! Speedway now ownes AFCO. JEGS sells AFCO. Don't believe everything the "tech guru's" at JEGS tells you. I called AFCO right after I got off the phone with "Mr. Guru" and was assured I did have the CORRECT kit. He said the...

I have a question to those of you using sliders. The aluminum bushing that came with the kit measures .950 OD and the eye on the spring measures .897. Don't all A body leaf springs have the same ID? I realize the bushing needs to fit tight but .053 seems too much. I can chuck the bushing up in...

After a whole lot of measuring and calculations, I've decided that sliders are the best way to go. I made multiple adjustments in the front spring hangers (stock, 1 1/2" lowered and 1" to the rear). The sliders should be here tomorrow. I may need to modify them (lengthen them 1") to accommodate...

You've installed it correctly.

As you can see, I've built the front spring boxes but have not drilled the holes. If I move the holes back 1" in the front spring hangers and install the spring tubes at the rear in the existing hole in the frame, will this cause the shackle to bottom out on the frame? If I drill holes at the...

I'm building my own spring relocation kit. My question is: if I mount the front spring boxes flush with the outside frame rails that leaves about 3/4" offset to the inside. Do I weld the rear tube 3/4" offset to the inside as well? All the pics I've seen the tube is centered in the frame. Seems...