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#-o Don't you just hate it when that happens? Glad you got it figured out.

Correction - that should be "switched to ground by either the points or the module." Glad I could help.

The radio noise supressor goes on the - (that's minus, or negative) side of the coil. That is the side that is being switched to ground by either the coil or the module. The case of the supressor provides it's ground connection, so it needs to be bolted to the coil bracket

I've heard good things about the distributor and electronic module from FBO Systems. You can get the whole setup for $320. Worth a look if this is a street/strip car. I would have used it on mine if I hadn't already bought an MSD setup.

Respectfully Dave, I do not agree with this theory. I believe that what Alex experienced is still a voltage drop in the factory wiring between the alternator and the fuse box. When the headlights are turned on, you also get parking lights, tail lights, side marker lights and instrument panel...

The alternator is the power source. The battery is for cranking the motor, and to provide reserve power when the motor is not running.

Yes. With a fully charged battery, your alternator should keep the voltage right at 14.2V.

A heavy gauge copper wire will always be a better conductor than a bunch of 30 year old sheets of steel spotwelded together.

charge wire size chart

You are correct in your thinking. If there is even one foot of 12ga and the rest is replaced with 10ga, then the circuit is limited to the capacity of the 12ga wire. Like I said in a post last week, if you follow the instructions on madelectrical, you should be just fine... even if the wiring is...

There is really no reason to change the wire gauge from 12 to 10 unless you have added a LOT of electrical accessories off the main fuse block. The amp guage bypass, if performed per the madelectrical instructions, eliminates all the battery charging current through those wires. Plus, you now...

Yes, do the AMP gauge bypass immediately. Until you do, all the current from the alternator has to go thru the firewall connection and amp gauge before it gets to the battery. You have both increased the alternator output and the load on it... not good for the stock wiring! Edited to say...

That sounds about right if the key is in the RUN position. The coil should only see the full 12V in the START position. Does your meter also measure resistance (ohms)? If so, verify all the ignition wires have continuity... especially the coil-to-distributer wire.

Gee, how rice. . . . . . . . . Just kidding. They look good.

The AMP gauge bypass is also a great mod to do if you haven't already. http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

I haven't done it yet, but I would suggest mounting the relay somewhere between the battery and the drivers side headlight so you can keep the wire lengths short. The goal is to beef up the wiring, so it does not make sense to have real long wire lengths just so you can mount the relay in a...

I tried to reply to this yesterday but my post got dropped with the server change. A Condenser is in effect a radio noise suppressor, it is also a specialized capacitor. The condenser's main job in life is to eliminate (or at least greatly reduce) arcing between the contacts of the points and...

That is the condenser. It should be wired so it is across the points. One side, the case, is ground. The wire should connect somewhere between the points and the (-) terminal of the coil.

You could spend $20 or so and get hand operated vacuum pump like this... ...or you could just get a long piece of vacuum hose and hook it up to an engine that will run. :)

You are lucky it did not catch on fire and burn your car to a crisp. When you do any major rewiring, always check for shorts with a multi-meter before hooking the battery up. It's also a good idea to put a fusible link in series the first time you hook up the battery and check all the circuits...

My Dart has the Pertronix kit. It works okay for the stock motor.

I pulled the drivers side kick panel off last night. Your right, not much room there to flush mount them. Would definately have to cut a hole in the sheet metal. I think if I'm going to do this, custom fiberglass kick panels are the way to go. Sounds like another project to put on the to do list.

I have an old set of Boston Acoustics 5-1/4" component speakers I would like to make use of in the Dart. My preference would be to mount the mid-bass driver down in the kickpanels. Anyone done this? What is behind the panel? How much room is there? How deep can I go? Will I have to cut metal...

I am going to convert to a GM style 12si alternator on my Dart. Why? Because they are reliable, they work great and they are dirt cheap. There are high amperage after market units available too. Or, you can just get a case from the junk yard and buy a kit to rebuilt it as a higher amperage...

That bracket mounts on the trans end, not the carb end. See the pics in your other thread in the trans forum.

Mopower71 wrote: and then So why would he need to disconnect it if it's a ported source?

When it comes time to do mine, I'm going to use a Painless kit or something equivelant. They use a modern style fuse block, and all the wires are color coded. It should make for a cleaner install. I would add a relay to the headlight circuit in addition to the fuel pump. Your MSD box should...

Rabius, you don't need to pull the distributor to change the timing chain. And even if you do pull it, it can only go back 2 ways... correctly, or 180° out. This is because the oil pump drive shaft is driven off the camshaft, not the distributor.

Adam, I thought ypu were running a FBO ignition. Or is it just the distributor?

FASTBACK340 asked: http://www.4secondsflat.com/Ignition.html