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I don't have mono's yet, so I can't really answer that. I do plan to get a set eventually though. But if I am not mistaken, you can custom order the spring rate as well as specify the ride height you want. So you should be able to get them dialed in pretty much just the way you want them.

The way I understand mono-leafs is the front half of the spring is primarily just to locate the axle fore-and-aft. It contributes very little to the 'spring' effect, which is the job of the rear half of the mono-leaf spring. Also, the reason mono-leaf springs works so well with the Cal-Trac bar...

Welcome to the forums. You have some nice projects there. Thanks for sharing.

Dusterb - here are some more links/pics. Some Mopar, some not. And here is a good installation article on a Nova.

This is onehellofadart's picture.

To use those shackles, you also need the corresponding hangers which is part number DCC-4120077 in the Summit catalog. Plus to do it right you will need to move the spring perches in on the axle housing about 3/4" on each side. Shackles - $58 Hangers - $129 Spring perches - $13 welding...

Thanks for the tip on that book, I didn't know it existed. I just dropped a money order in the mail. :book:

The ride height adjustment is really about setting the lower control arms at a prescibed angle. This adjustment is the first thing you should set when you align the front end of the car. Your actual ride height is really based on the diameter of the tires. Altering the ride height setting to...

Damn, why can't you guys be in Texas? :sad2: I'm glad you guys are gonna fix the problem though. :thumblef: Now if we could just get ARP to fix their main stud set....

Depending on what year B-body axle you have, it is either 1.8" or 4.6" wider from flange to flange than the original axle. So divide that by 2 and add it to your current backspacing to get the wheels in the same spot. This chart in BBD might help you figure it out...

Here's a couple more links with pictures. http://www.fourbarrel.com/rearsuspension.html http://www.scottysplace.net/71Duster/gallery.asp http://www.angelfire.com/mo2/radrodder/66WheelWells_Tub.html And some tech talk on setting them up...

Yeah, a warped rotor or out of round drum can cause a vibration sensation. Also check the bearing run-out on the front hubs. When you say vibration, describe exactly what happens. Does the steering wheel shake or do you feel a vibration through the chassis? But, I am curious why it seemed to...

It is the reduction of camber change that 'may' reduce understeer. This is completely dependant on the cars front suspension geometry. If the outside tire in a turn folds over onto the sidewall, then of course it's going to push. The swar bar can eliminate some of that tendancy because it...

This is backwards. Adding a front bar, or increasing the stiffness of a front bar increases understeer. Adding a rear bar, or increasing the stiffness of a rear bar increases oversteer. Don't take my word for it... SCCA handling chart My advice, get a good book (or three) on automotive...

'Cause I want to drive mine on the street and a parking brake is REQUIRED for the state safety inspection.

Those are definately the wrong parts. Hope you can take them back.

Okay, I had to go look up the article I used as reference. I am certainly not a Mopar expert, so I rely heavily on the technical info I read. So if this is wrong, sorry. :toothy9: Quote taken from this article - http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html

Carefull here. I have seen references that claim the piston diameter is different between the A-body and the B-body calipers. This could affect brake balance if you are using the stock proportioning valve. If you plan to use an adjustable prop valve, it shouldn't matter. Also, there are two...

In my opinion, Moog rubber bushings are the way to go for a street cruiser. They are a higher durometer rubber than stock, but not as stiff as poly. And the best thing is they will never squeek. Moog also has a bushing with the center offset allowing you to get 3 or 4 degrees more caster...

:scratch: Must be Adam screwin around again... maybe not :geek:

Sorry for sounding like a wisenheimer, but you're suppose to smack the pickle fork with a hammer. A BIG hammer. Like 2-1/2lbs or so. Usually the fork has a 'flat' side that is parallel to the handle, and the 'ramped' side. Put the flat side toward the control arm and the ramp toward the...

:D :D

work?

didn't

fork

pickle

The

:shock: I hope you wait until you're old enough for a drivers license before you drive anywhere. 8) And how did you manage to get a job. :tongue:

I think that's why he's going to use the 245. He's saving the 275 until after he does the spreing relocate.

I have not done this, so take this with a grain of salt .... The typical 1/2" Mopar wheel studs have a .685" knurl. So yes, if you drill the the new holes for these press in studs then there is very little meat left on the flange. However, if you drill the hole size for a 1/2" tap, then tap the...