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Ok so there are only 2 locations the selective snap rings or shims are used, one on the bearing on the input shaft and the other on the output shaft bearing?

When assembling the 833 the proper thickness selective snap ring or the shims that are available as a replacement for the snap rings are used on the input shaft after the bearing is pressed on and after the rear bearing is pressed on the mainshaft. Are they used anywhere else? The snap ring...

I didn't see anyone mention this yet, but one of the week areas of the 833OD is that the counter shaft is floating instead of a pressed fit like the regular 833. You can get the case bushed and get a countershaft for a regular 833 and that will increase strength.

I asked Jamie about the Slick Shift for a street car, he said they shift like **** on the street.

I need a 11", 143 tooth flywheel. And am leaning toward SFI rated ones.

I need to get a flywheel for my 383. I was looking at Summit and all of the flywheels listed say to not be used with a stock style clutch, that when using a performance flywheel a performance clutch must also be used or there could be insufficient clearance between the flywheel bolts and the...

What slave cylinder are people using in their pieced together hydraulic clutch setups? I am going to use a master cylinder from a late 80's Ram truck, it has a 7/8" bore.

If anyone is interested. They needed to be replaced. I went up to Passion Performance today and that is what he told me. They are the latter style strut keys. So if you are rebuilding one and you can catch any ware on the strut keys with your finger nail they are shot.

How much wear is acceptable in the strut keys? I'm rebuilding an OD 833, the hump on the keys have enough wear that I can catch it with my fingernail. So I'm guessing they need to be replaced.

Is a scatter shield a direct swap for a OEM bell housing? Is there more room around a scatter shield? Did a quick search and found a lakewood scattershield, but they don't say what size clutch to use. I know there isn't much room for headers and the clutch linkage in there and I was thinking...

Anyone know what bell housing will work in a 1976 Duster with a big block? 10.5 or 11 inch clutch? I am considering doing a BB swap, I have a 440 short block sitting in the garage just begging to go in.

Figured it out. One of the spring clips was a little long and it was catching the other shift lever.

Before you drain the fluid make sure you can get the fill plug out. The drain plug is at the bottom of the case on the driverside. The fill plug is about halfway up the case on the passenger side. The plugs have a square head. I filled mine with the fluid Passion Performance sells. I have...

I took it to Passion and he said it was rebuild-able, so they rebuilt it, he is only 45 min from me. Its in my Duster now and works great. So to answer my own question it was worth it.

I checked the linkage and all of the rods are adjusted properly. I found why its locked out. When I shift into 1st the 3-4 lever on the shifter, is moving forward also. When I crawled under the car I had to move the 3-4 lever back into neutral then I could move through the rest of the gears...

Not trying to be a smart *** but, we are on a A-body forum and we are in the 4 speed section. Anyways not trying to start anything. Before I put the transmission into the Duster and I did this about a month ago. I could move the levers and feel the click that you are describing. The trans...

Ok. I was going to have someone shift it form 1st to 2nd while I'm under the car. But makes sense what you are saying. Yes once its out of 2nd everything is fine. Goes into 3 and 4 fine.

Thanks for the helpful replys. The shifter mechanism was rebuilt by passion. All of the swivel ends are new, and I rebuilt the transmission. I was going to use the tool to align the shifter, but my mechanism is one that doesn't have the hole in the reverse rod. So I can't use it in my case...

If its a trans linkage issue, I don't think it matters what vehicle its in.

The transmission has to be shifted into second gear to be able to shift into any other gear. So when I put it in first I have to move it to second next or I'm locked out of 3rd or 4th and neutral, so I'm guessing I don't have the linkage adjusted right. All of the arms in the shifter were...

This is my 3rd 833 I'm rebuilding, first on was out of a 1968 Barracuda, and I had to press that countershaft out, 2nd one was a OD one with a cast iron case, that countershaft I was able to push out by hand. The 3rd one is a OD one with an aluminum case, I thought it would be like the second...

Does any grease go on the input shaft splines or on the pilot bearing when installing the transmission, or is all assembled dry?

OK, thanks. I think if i remember correctly that the old bolts had lock-washers on there as well.

what grade bolts should be used for the bellhousing to transmission?

What does the 3 alen headed bolts get torqued to that hold the plate to the extension housing?

To me the 2 on the top just don't look right. All of the ones I have seen have the same diameter as the bottom one. Are there part numbers stamped in the rods? I'll see if I can find some.

Can anyone tell from the picture if this linkage is correct for an A-body (1976 Duster)? The top one is the reverse rod and it dropped down below the trans cross member when it was on the car.

Thanks for the input. I have 2 transmissions, one has a cast iron case and tail, the other an aluminum case and cast iron tail. One is going into a DD duster with a 360, car might get a stroked 360 someday, but will be taken to the track every now and then. The other is going into my Ram with...

From what I have read on here the aluminum case isn't recommended for a performance build. What about an aluminum bell housing or tailshaft? I would like to reduce some weight if possible, but if those components are going to be a weak point I'll find another way to reduce weight.