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First year for 5.2 magnum was 92.

Here is the link from TTI exhaust of how they make the dual exhaust fit on an early A. I made my own but not as nice looking as there's. https://www.ttiexhaust.com/Classics-Com/Crossmember-Sht506_2pgs.pdf

To go from a 7 1/4 to an 8 3/4 you need to remove 1 3/4 inches from the drive shaft if it is the exact same car. But You are taking a drive shaft 108" inch wheel base car to a 111" wheel base car so I think you are going to have to measure it out. I believe I have this correct.

I used a pistol grip shifter in my 65 Cuda but don't remember what it came out of. But I do remember it was a stretch for first and third so I ovalled out the upper bolt hole to tip it back and welded the back side of hole in so it would stay where it was bolted.

I think it might be worth it to contact them and ask, be weird if it is a knock off as suggested by rrr. But I guess making the box with the correct eaton info would be the easy part. Let un know what you find.

Here is a letter that was written to Bearing-Technologies way back when the green bearing first came out. I believe the RP400 is no longer made and is replaced by the better MO400 or the ST400. : The question is whether or not the RP400 bearing kit for Mopar 8-3/4" axles is suitable for...

Any 8 3/4 used from an A body will work for you, get it complete and your good to go. Yes you will need a new drive shaft or shorten yours with the new yoke size for the 8 3/4. Moser's diff will work but more $$$. There still out there you'll just have to look.

awesome information you have put together. Thank you.

You should be ok using the extension, Clean the crap out of the inside of the bolt to make sure the extension can fit into the bolt tightly. probably have to hit the wrecker's to get a bolt, I couldn't find one new anywhere.

If you narrow a B or E body 8 3/4, just do it to accept A body axle's. I am also using the green bearings in the diff. Get Scotts housing sent ground, and it would be easier than finding a new housing and shorting it. I'm running a 68 A body 8 3/4 with Yukon 4.5 BBP axle's and wilwod disc up...

I used yukon Axles and didn't have to remove the block. I have heard of people having to remove the block as well.

I used 69 B Body 8 3/4 backing plates with same year drums. This was with Yukon BBP axles. I now have wilwood disc's on it now with green bearings.

Actually your diff will be a 7 1/4 ring gear. The plug is not a Torx, it's just a "double square" 8-point socket-head plug. You might be able to get it out with a 1/2 extension bar end.

Everything look like it is lined up ok? If you unbolt the flexplate with the motor and trans still bolted together will the converter slide back and forth ok? It should slide back about a 1/4 of an inch away from the flex plate. Normally it takes a lot of power to brake one. Do you have any...

One thing to note is, do you want to keep the 4" bolt circle? If you do then you will have to find an A body 8 3/4. If you are going to 4.5 pattern then an 8 1/4 should do ok. Any A body with a 4.5 BP will work for you. There are a lot more choices out there if you want to narrow a rear...

Dartin, i think you are asking if the rear end has wider brakes does that make the rear end wider. No, the axel flange to axel flange is the witdh of the rear, and brake width dosn't make a difference. The brake baking plates are different for wider drums.

I made mine, but you can get one from TTI as well. http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Header-TTI636A/Crossmember.htm I was tired of the exhaust vibrating on the X member.

Good advice on the centering!! I used standard studs and had to drill the wilwood disc's out as well. I'm running Yukon axles in mine.

I'm running the wilwood disc's with green bearings. With any rear disc you can't use the old tapered bearings. I think you must use green bearings that are with the snap ring. Which in think is MO400, not the RP400. I know this as I had the wrong ones when I put my disc's on. And you can't use...

Here is the chart. it dosn't do anything newer that 76.

Yea, it'll work. That's the one I ran on my 383 scamp. but I bought it from Mopar perf. The only thing is those won't work with wilwood disc setup. Now to get those bearings pushed on!

Hey Jim looks like this is the kit for the green bearing with the snap ring, don't know how quick you can get it though. I've bought a few of these kits from a guy on ebay named Mopar Madness, with good luck, although this is not one of his kits...

I agree with Redfish. just make sure you still have enough thread on the wheel nuts left for thin spacers. For a spcer that thick (almost an inch) I would go with different wheels if possible, with a different offset. Have you already bought your wheels?

My swap book shows they swap, It does state from 4" Bolt circle to 4" bolt circle.

Hyper72valiant, are you perhaps talking about flange offset? 4" BP (A Body 8 3/4) has a different flange offset than other Dodge rearends. BBP 8 3/4 is 2.36 offset. I think SBP is 2.0 inch offset. Just a thought.

Those over drive tranny's must use a over drive bellhousing. the only way to tell for sure if you have an OD trans, is it has a 5.125 diameter bearing retainer and can only use the 5.125 OD bellhousing to match

I thought the same thing, But when I tried it it seemed that the spacer didn't interfere but wasn't sure. I went and bought some plasterseen like silly putty and stuck it onto the end of one axel and bolted both axles in and when I pulled the axels out I had almost an 1/8 of an inch of room...

H22A4 is right but before you hunt for a rearend get the Bolt pattern that you want. You could have a 4" or 4.5 in that 74 Dart. I would also try for a 8 1/4 weather you have a /6 or V8.

It was 66 that first came out with the slip yoke.

The output shaft in the tranny needs to be changed as well as a new drivshaft. It may need a new rear housing as well. I did have a bunch of old 4 sp tranny parts but like a tool I threw them out a few years back. Why do you want to change it out? The old Hemi cars came with this and it seem...